Mercedes,Volvo and VW selling CNG cars here.
My mother drives an Mercedes B class with CNG and this car sucks.
120-150km range and topspeed on CNG are 140km/h (180 with gasoline)
Volvo say that they ]ve same power on CNG and gasoline but the max power with CNG was 5800rpm with gasoline at 4000rpm.
That is ony my expiriance I very intersted in your results.
I never have installed "mixer systems" the risc of an backfire is very high.

Udo



This is dyno test with 1.8T VW liqide LPG and gasoline

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www.granata.blogger.de

It will be interesting to see how it works out. It may be a flop-of-a-project. But I guess knowing that is worth something too.

_________________
...Always Somethin'

89 Ranger Supercab, 331 w/GT40p heads, ported Explorer lower, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, 1.6RRs, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, Slot Style MAF, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', 8.8" rear w/3.27s, Powertrax Locker, Innovate LC-1, GUFB, Moates QuarterHorse tuned using BE&EA

Member V8-Ranger.com

I think yor project is an very good one.
You have made right the most important with CNG an filling station that is close to you ( very close)
With 300 hp you can lost 60hp and was not underpowerded.

They are two ways to adjust LPG systems (CNG nearly same)

First and best was is with an pggy pack that will use ure injector time as input and give it out to the gas injector with an corrected time.
Other way is to cange the flow of the injector with an restrictor that can be canges ore drilled like carb jets. Here the car ECU signal was just switched to other injector.

The second way use the learing of the car ecu very much and get often problems when LPG ore CNG have other quality.

Udo

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www.granata.blogger.de

I've also heard that the "losses" from LPG (Propane) are on the top-end. My step father used to have a carburetor-based Propane conversion on an old farm truck of his back 20-30 years ago. He recalls that torque at lower RPMs actually improved over gasoline. He was telling me about how some hill he had to climb to get home always forced him to drop form 2nd gear to 1st with gasoline or the engine would lug. However when the engine was burning propane, he could climb the hill in 2nd. I don't know if spark knock was the limiting factor or if the engine truly had more torque that allowed him to pull up the hill in 2nd. I never thought to ask and I don't know that he'd remember.

My suspicion for this is Propane has a significantly higher octane rating compared to 87 octane (regular) gasoline. The higher octane rating means the fuel will burn slower making better use of the stroke at lower RPMs to produce more torque. The slower burn also explains why you need to add spark advance when burning a higher octane fuel to get the fuel burning sooner. However at higher RPMs, the longer burning fuel can cost you performance unless the engine/cam are setup to get a higher compression pressure to speed-up the burn. Stock compression engines and stock cams would have a distinct drop-off in torque at high RPM WOTs with a high octane fuel because of this which I'm hoping is why people that do CNG conversions say what they do about the significant drop in performance. However a performance oriented engine with higher compression, possibly a super/turbo, or just a high RPM cam would be able to make better use of the fuel at those higher RPMs. My engine will have higher compression, but will not have forced induction or a "high RPM" cam. The Crane Powermax 2020 is a performance cam when compared to the average car or truck cam that a CNG/LPG conversion might get put on. But it's .050" durations are on-par with a stock GT or Cobra cam. The higher lift, faster ramp rate, and narrower LSA, are what makes this cam a true upgrade to even the GT and Cobra performance oriented production cams allowing the 2020 to idle and perform like a stock cam at low RPMs while holding stronger to 5500. I'm not looking for absolute max HP from this build or from it running CNG. I want optimal fuel economy and performance at the low end where I spend 95% of my time while getting a decent thrill of "performance" at WOT. And I believe this cam fits that requirement better than any other cam I looked at regardless of whether the CNG conversion was going on or not. After all, when I 1st started looking in the 331 build, I had originally expected the "alternative" fuel would be E85. But when E85 stations never made it my area AND the price of E85 never came down to being worth buying, I gave up on it in favor of CNG.

If I were going to build a dedicated LPG or CNG system, I would make the compression of my engine well into the 12s or possibly 13s. After all, there are CNG conversion kits for diesel engines and diesels run in the 20-22:1 range. Although since diesels don't have spark plugs, they still require a small amount of diesel be injected just to ignite the Natural Gas. Evidently, the compression is high enough to ignite diesel, but not enough to self-ignite Natural Gas. I don't know the science behind CNG on diesels. But since my build is dual fuel, capable of burning gasoline or CNG, I need the engine to be capable of running on premium pump gas. And that means keeping the compression down ~10:1 with the cam I have (more aggressive cams would allow for higher static compression ~10.5-11 on pump gas).

_________________
...Always Somethin'

89 Ranger Supercab, 331 w/GT40p heads, ported Explorer lower, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, 1.6RRs, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, Slot Style MAF, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', 8.8" rear w/3.27s, Powertrax Locker, Innovate LC-1, GUFB, Moates QuarterHorse tuned using BE&EA

Member V8-Ranger.com

There is no differens in burning speed of gasoline and LPG.
The less power on high rpm was on old mixer style systems. with moderen injected systems there is marginal difference.
I make testings with more ignition timing but there was no advance. The oktane rating is only how is to ignite. Low numbers easy ignition high numbers not so easy to ingite. Often customer comes an say:" there is problem with the LPG system. It bogs on LPG but not on fuel" this often problem with ignition system that you not feel on easy to ignite gasoline.

On CNG there is an big advance in power when you advance ignition.

An MSD system is an good investment in LPG and CNG

Bouth LPG and CNG burning without build of carbon. This maens that on valve seat metal contacts metal and an effect called "microweldin" happens and can destroy valve seats.
LS motres,Fors Foucus 1.6 and 2.0, all Korean, and lot Japnese cars have that problem. Maybe it is an german problem because Autobahn is an killer for that. High loads long time.

Udo

_________________
www.granata.blogger.de

I do have an MSD ignition box already on the truck. So ignition shouldn't be a problem. Interesting that Propane performs similar to gasoline, but CNG does not.

And I often wondered about the valve seat issue. I'd always heard the problem with propane and valve seats, but my machinist told me that wasn't an issue as long as you have hardened valve seats...not weak valve seats. But perhaps even with hardened seats, this could be an issue? If so, any ideas how it is avoided?

_________________
...Always Somethin'

89 Ranger Supercab, 331 w/GT40p heads, ported Explorer lower, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, 1.6RRs, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, Slot Style MAF, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', 8.8" rear w/3.27s, Powertrax Locker, Innovate LC-1, GUFB, Moates QuarterHorse tuned using BE&EA

Member V8-Ranger.com

jes hardened valve seats have no problems.
The most cars today have sinter (powder) metall seats because the costs.
Only premium manufacturer BMW,Mercedes (not A and B class) and VW Group and Renault have them.
We have here Opel 1.6 Liter ECOTEC that are scrap after 30tkm
There are some aditive on market but most of them will not working

Udo

_________________
www.granata.blogger.de

I was talking to my machinist about Propane & CNG as it relates to the valves. He said not putting enough timing on the engine with a low compression engine will have the fuel still burning when the exhaust valve opens and that tends to burn up exhaust valves on stock engines. However with my higher compression AND the ability advance timing in the tune, I shouldn't have that problem.

I did specifically ask about hardened seats because of my intention to run CNG and I was sure he said my heads have hardened seats. I don't recall if that's because he put them in or if Ford GT40p heads come with hardened seats from the factory. While we were on that subject, he showed me a Ford V6 head (from a Taurus I think) that did not have hardened seats from the factory. The head I was looking at was a 4-valve head. One valve was up where it was supposed to be, and the worst one was down in a hole the diameter of the valve a good 1/8" or more. He said for those heads, he installs hardened seats and the heads never have that problem again. I don't know if the reason those V6 heads do this is because the valves are so much smaller (less seat surface area for the same spring force) or if Ford truly is guilty of putting "cheap" valve seats on those heads. I do remember him distinctly saying I shouldn't have that problem with my heads. But I also don't think he's got a lot of CNG customers to base that opinion off of so that may be inaccurate/unreliable information coming from him.

_________________
...Always Somethin'

89 Ranger Supercab, 331 w/GT40p heads, ported Explorer lower, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, 1.6RRs, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, Slot Style MAF, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', 8.8" rear w/3.27s, Powertrax Locker, Innovate LC-1, GUFB, Moates QuarterHorse tuned using BE&EA

Member V8-Ranger.com

I called the machinist and he confirmed that GT40p heads do have hardened seats. He said they are flame-hardened. I took that to mean the seats aren't actual separate parts. Ford flame-hardens the casting where the valves will land to form a harder seat than the cast iron as-cast would form. I don't know if this is a good thing or not. If this is what Ford's done, the seats are not powder metallurgy seats which I'm assuming is a good thing. What I don't know is if flame-hardening is any better particularly given the seat surfaces got machined for the 3 angle valve job. Here's a pic of one of the exhaust seats before I ported it:


Anyway I mentioned the possibility of micro-welding due to lack of lubrication from CNG combustion and he said with my heads he still didn't feel like it is a big enough deal to worry about. Again, these are coming from a machinist that I don't think has a single customer running CNG. Although they have done a number of engines for people running Propane. What I don't know is if those engines were fork-lift engines (i.e. built to run Propane as opposed to converted from gasoline to propane).

Another thing I thought of, the Taurus head I looked at was an aluminum head. Thus flame-hardening wasn't an option and they HAD to put seats in the heads. For those cheap Taurus engines, it's quite possible Ford went cheap and put crap seats in.

_________________
...Always Somethin'

89 Ranger Supercab, 331 w/GT40p heads, ported Explorer lower, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, 1.6RRs, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, Slot Style MAF, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', 8.8" rear w/3.27s, Powertrax Locker, Innovate LC-1, GUFB, Moates QuarterHorse tuned using BE&EA

Member V8-Ranger.com

I have no expiriance with flame hardened seats.
All motors we have done are alumium heads. I still can remember when they baned the lead out of gas.
The Ford V6 2.8 Liter was popular these days. Some get problems some not. We never mow why. It was allways the seats never the valves.

Udo

_________________
www.granata.blogger.de

I guess I'll see just how CNG-ready Ford cast iron heads are.

_________________
...Always Somethin'

89 Ranger Supercab, 331 w/GT40p heads, ported Explorer lower, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, 1.6RRs, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, Slot Style MAF, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', 8.8" rear w/3.27s, Powertrax Locker, Innovate LC-1, GUFB, Moates QuarterHorse tuned using BE&EA

Member V8-Ranger.com

Update.

Ace Sales sent my refueling nozzle to go on my CNG compressor, but as I suspected all along, the nozzle is for 3600PSI systems and my CNG kit is sold as a 3000PSI system. Thus the refueling receptacle in the kit won't work with the nozzle. The receptacle is 25mm thick to prevent a 3600PSI nozzle (24mm) from fitting on it. The kit meets requirements for 3600PSI, but since the kits are sold for countries that don't allow 3600PSI, they ship the kit with the 3000PSI receptacle. To fix this, Ace Sales sent me a Snap Tite 3600PSI (NGVN2-P36) receptacle. The nice part is the Snap Tite receptacles aren't bulky like the one in the kit is. It's just the quick-connect receptacle with 9/16"-18 SAE O-ring straight threads. That's a rather unusual thread type, but not impossible to find adapters for if you know what to call the threads. So I changed my plan and decided the best place for the receptacle to go is directly on the valve of my tank. It completely eliminates having high pressure tubing going from the tank to the bumper or some other part of the truck and figuring out how to "mount" a receptacle that doesn't have really any provisions for being mounted.


Today I picked up the adapter that adapts the receptacle to my valve's standard 1/4" NPT female port. I like this setup far better.

I also need a similar adapter to adapt the Snap Tite quick connect nozzle (NGVC2-P36) to my compressor's hose. The hose has a standard 1/4" NPT male fitting to that same 9/16"-18 Oring thread that the receptacle has. It'll be coming in tomorrow. In total, the fittings will cost about $7...not bad for extreme pressure specialty fittings.

I also got my NEMA 6-50P (220v plug) to NEMA 5-20R (110v receptacle) adapter made up as well as bought the box and NEMA 6-50R receptacle that will go in my wall near where the compressor will run. I do want to get the 110v end well marked as 220v so nobody screws up and fries something plugging in there when they aren't supposed to. Again, I'm going with NEMA 6-50 just because the Eastwood welder I want to get someday also uses that same connector. It'd be nice if the compressor and welder could use the same wall receptacle.

The update on the engine is...it still ain't done. Turns out the machinist has it at another machine shop getting done. Evidently what I was asking of him was just too damn difficult which dumbfounds me. I was talking to him today about some ultra-specialized machining work his assistant just got done with on a Honda 4-cylinder block resleeving it with custom sleeves to take the engine from a stock ~130hp to 600+HP running about 40PSI boost burning E85. It was impressive work they did getting the custom sleeves to fit. So why they couldn't do a simple Windsor stroker is beyond me.

_________________
...Always Somethin'

89 Ranger Supercab, 331 w/GT40p heads, ported Explorer lower, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, 1.6RRs, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, Slot Style MAF, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', 8.8" rear w/3.27s, Powertrax Locker, Innovate LC-1, GUFB, Moates QuarterHorse tuned using BE&EA

Member V8-Ranger.com

Nice you're making some headway, even if it's slowly. but the deal with the engine still sucks. I can't believe it's taken them this long.

_________________
1978 Mustang II King Cobra
89 5.0HO, Stock Short Block, Edelbrock 4bbl aluminum intake, Holley 650 double pumper, MSD 6AL, Ford F303 cam, 1.7:1 Crane Roller Rockers, Pocket Ported stock heads, Hedman Long Tube Headers
5 spd Manual
Full roll cage, 9" full floater w/Currie trac lock/373 gears, RCI Fuel Cell
Project Page: http://www.brandttuning.com/projects.htm

Well, I got the engine back. So maybe I'll make some progress on this. However a number of things have happened that I haven't mentioned. The main things are I got all the high pressure fittings to get my refueling receptacle to mount directly onto my tank valve and to correctly fit my refueling nozzle to the compressor's hose. The only "pieces" of the CNG conversion I don't have right now are the rubber hoses to connect the regulators to the injectors and the injectors to the lower intake. But I'm not terribly worried about that.

One of the issues I've been contemplating since the kit came in is where the injector rails will mount in the engine bay. There's simply not many places they can go. But there's plenty of room "on" the engine if I can figure a way to bolt them somewhere around the engine somewhere. One of the ideas I have is to mount them onto the upper plenum. Here's what the injector rails look like:


What I'm thinking is end-mill the upper plenum and have a square or round piece of aluminum welded to the upper something like this:


With the dowels drilled, tapped, and welded to the upper, I can bolt a plate to them something like this:


And the injector rails can then bolt to that plate. With this, they aren't mounted right ON the engine so they hopefully won't be exposed to as much heat. But they are up next to the engine where they really need to be to keep the tubes and wires to the injectors short.

_________________
...Always Somethin'

89 Ranger Supercab, 331 w/GT40p heads, ported Explorer lower, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, 1.6RRs, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, Slot Style MAF, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', 8.8" rear w/3.27s, Powertrax Locker, Innovate LC-1, GUFB, Moates QuarterHorse tuned using BE&EA

Member V8-Ranger.com

Looks like a good plan to me. Upper should stay fairly cool, and IMO you do want them on the engine somewhere rather than mounted to the truck.

_________________
1978 Mustang II King Cobra
89 5.0HO, Stock Short Block, Edelbrock 4bbl aluminum intake, Holley 650 double pumper, MSD 6AL, Ford F303 cam, 1.7:1 Crane Roller Rockers, Pocket Ported stock heads, Hedman Long Tube Headers
5 spd Manual
Full roll cage, 9" full floater w/Currie trac lock/373 gears, RCI Fuel Cell
Project Page: http://www.brandttuning.com/projects.htm

I got my upper intake back with the pillars welded onto it. It's still awfully dirty and in desperate need of being cleaned up. But here it is:



And as you can see here, the factory powder coating is peeling off pretty badly. It looks like salt damage. Large areas as you can see are peeling right off due to that white corrosion under the coating. And even in some areas that still look like the coating is holding on, you can scrape the coating with a screwdriver and it flakes right off with that white stuff under it, just not as easily as the areas that have already lifted off and showing obvious peeling. Other areas of the intake are still solid with none of that white corrosion.

So anybody know what'll soften that stuff off so I can wire-brush it off, clean the surface of the white corrosion, and repaint it?

_________________
...Always Somethin'

89 Ranger Supercab, 331 w/GT40p heads, ported Explorer lower, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, 1.6RRs, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, Slot Style MAF, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', 8.8" rear w/3.27s, Powertrax Locker, Innovate LC-1, GUFB, Moates QuarterHorse tuned using BE&EA

Member V8-Ranger.com

will sand blasting work? never tried it on powder coat

_________________
1978 Mustang II King Cobra
89 5.0HO, Stock Short Block, Edelbrock 4bbl aluminum intake, Holley 650 double pumper, MSD 6AL, Ford F303 cam, 1.7:1 Crane Roller Rockers, Pocket Ported stock heads, Hedman Long Tube Headers
5 spd Manual
Full roll cage, 9" full floater w/Currie trac lock/373 gears, RCI Fuel Cell
Project Page: http://www.brandttuning.com/projects.htm

I'm sure it would help. But I don't have a sand blaster.

I also noticed the inside of the intake is caked thick with what looks like oil buildup from the last engine. The engine was obviously abused when it was in the Explorer as the pistons were covered in black soot around the rings so badly that most pistons had to be forced out past a ring of carbon build up and many of the pistons were so filled with it that their rings were still held in their grooves by the carbon even after the pistons were no longer in the bore. I sprayed a bunch of brake cleaner and carb cleaner down into it to begin breaking it up. It's going to take quite a few flushes with something, possibly kerosene or mineral spirits, to get it cleaned up.

_________________
...Always Somethin'

89 Ranger Supercab, 331 w/GT40p heads, ported Explorer lower, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, 1.6RRs, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, Slot Style MAF, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', 8.8" rear w/3.27s, Powertrax Locker, Innovate LC-1, GUFB, Moates QuarterHorse tuned using BE&EA

Member V8-Ranger.com

yeah soak it in mineral spirits or acetone. That might not knock out all of the carbon, but will get any oil/etc.

_________________
1978 Mustang II King Cobra
89 5.0HO, Stock Short Block, Edelbrock 4bbl aluminum intake, Holley 650 double pumper, MSD 6AL, Ford F303 cam, 1.7:1 Crane Roller Rockers, Pocket Ported stock heads, Hedman Long Tube Headers
5 spd Manual
Full roll cage, 9" full floater w/Currie trac lock/373 gears, RCI Fuel Cell
Project Page: http://www.brandttuning.com/projects.htm

Ultrasonic celaning is best,
when you make before welding the seams get much cleaner.

Udo

_________________
www.granata.blogger.de

That sounds expensive. I'm hoping there's a nifty cleanser or solvent like Xylene. Mineral spirits will clean the oil and crud from the inside, I'm not sure if mineral spirits will dissolve the powder coating though. The sand blasting and ultrasonic thingie-ma-jigger seem like they'd do a more thorough job, but unless those are no more than $25, it's out of the budget as compared to a spinny wire brush & a drill.

_________________
...Always Somethin'

89 Ranger Supercab, 331 w/GT40p heads, ported Explorer lower, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, 1.6RRs, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, Slot Style MAF, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', 8.8" rear w/3.27s, Powertrax Locker, Innovate LC-1, GUFB, Moates QuarterHorse tuned using BE&EA

Member V8-Ranger.com

please dont waste xylene on cleaning, get some purple power

_________________
http://www.efidynotuning.com/ford/

What is Xylene best used for? The only time I've ever been told to use Xylene for anything is to dissolve water based concrete sealant.

Will Purple Power soften/dissolve powder coating?

I was recently told by the machinist to use oven cleaner. Anybody ever used that for cleaning parts like this?

_________________
...Always Somethin'

89 Ranger Supercab, 331 w/GT40p heads, ported Explorer lower, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, 1.6RRs, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, Slot Style MAF, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', 8.8" rear w/3.27s, Powertrax Locker, Innovate LC-1, GUFB, Moates QuarterHorse tuned using BE&EA

Member V8-Ranger.com

a quick search gave me this:

http://www.choppersurplus.com/global/ar ... ating.html

not sure if it works or not, but don't think that stuff is too expensive

_________________
1978 Mustang II King Cobra
89 5.0HO, Stock Short Block, Edelbrock 4bbl aluminum intake, Holley 650 double pumper, MSD 6AL, Ford F303 cam, 1.7:1 Crane Roller Rockers, Pocket Ported stock heads, Hedman Long Tube Headers
5 spd Manual
Full roll cage, 9" full floater w/Currie trac lock/373 gears, RCI Fuel Cell
Project Page: http://www.brandttuning.com/projects.htm

Great find...

_________________
...Always Somethin'

89 Ranger Supercab, 331 w/GT40p heads, ported Explorer lower, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, 1.6RRs, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, Slot Style MAF, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', 8.8" rear w/3.27s, Powertrax Locker, Innovate LC-1, GUFB, Moates QuarterHorse tuned using BE&EA

Member V8-Ranger.com

I sandblasted mine. Left it bare and it looks great imo.

_________________
88 Mustang GUFB, BE/QH, SN2000, 42lb injectors, 90mm lmaf, P heads, Explorer intake
70 Mercury Cougar

bewbies, that looks great neked like that, i would probably skeet some clear on it just to protect it a tad and maybe give it more of a gunmetal appearance, that would be pure sex, in any case, nice looking engine


chris... xylene is used as a gasoline additive, its something like 117 octane if memory serves, i sometimes work with it at the refineries, good stuff

_________________
http://www.efidynotuning.com/ford/

Maybe it's Xylol I'm thinking of...

_________________
...Always Somethin'

89 Ranger Supercab, 331 w/GT40p heads, ported Explorer lower, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, 1.6RRs, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, Slot Style MAF, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', 8.8" rear w/3.27s, Powertrax Locker, Innovate LC-1, GUFB, Moates QuarterHorse tuned using BE&EA

Member V8-Ranger.com

Well, I finally got my lower ported out like I want, cleaned up, and painted. The last thing for me to do to it is drill and tap the lower for the NatGas inlet taps. I've already got my locations punched. I just need to confirm the thickness at those locations is adequate and not paper-thin due to my porting. I don't believe there'll be any problems since the vast amount of my porting was to obstructions in the flow near the ports, not in the runners so much.

I've also got the upper coated in gasket remover to soften the powdercoat so I can knock off the loose powdercoating and repaint it to get it looking good. Once I get those 2 things done, I can get them bolted onto the engine and that should be about it for my engine. At that point, it'll be time to start thinking about when to get it swapped for the engine I'm driving on now. I'm probably also going to install as much of the NatGas conversion onto the truck before the swap so most of it will already be there when I get to the engine swap. The engine swap will also include replacement of a few other things in the engine bay, particularly my steering box which as been leaking for years now, but it's not been critical enough for me to care. But while I'm in there with the engine out of the way, it'll be a conveneint time to do that too. I'm just hoping the engine swap can literally be done in a weekend. I don't know why it couldn't. But as we all know...things happen.

Oh yeah, and I still need to make up as much of the injector wiring as I can before installation. Thanks to BIGDATOWN for getting me in contact with 90MustangLX. He had one of those salt-n-pepper extension cables that I determined I could use as a means to splice together a custom CNG injector harness with.


With that now in hand, I'll be able to splice my CNG injectors, current-limiting resistors, and relays into that extension cable so all that work can be done BEFORE the swap and thus be ready to go when I do the engine swap. Once I get the lower bolted down to the engine, I can loose-fit the upper and fab up a plate to go on those extensions I had welded to the upper.


With a plate fitted, I can then select a good placement and orientation for the injector rails as well as make headway on the custom CNG injector harness. I'm still trying to sort out where I want those current-limiting resistors to go. Do I just want them taped up in-line? That'll bulk-up the thickness of the harness and make it difficult to replace those reisistors if they ever went bad. But it would certainly be a better use of space. The other option is to run long enough runs of wire to locate the resistors on the sides of the engine bay somewhere. That's just a lot of wire to have running back-n-forth across the engine bay. Even wire-loomed, I don't know how neat-n-tidy I can keep that looking.

_________________
...Always Somethin'

89 Ranger Supercab, 331 w/GT40p heads, ported Explorer lower, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, 1.6RRs, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, Slot Style MAF, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', 8.8" rear w/3.27s, Powertrax Locker, Innovate LC-1, GUFB, Moates QuarterHorse tuned using BE&EA

Member V8-Ranger.com

Well, I made some progress last night and today. I got the upper stripped and a few coats of paint sprayed on. It certainly looks better than it does above although it still needs another coat or two in places:


Thought the dark blue would go well with this being a Natural Gas engine (Nat gas burns blue). And the CNG injectors that will mount to the intake are also blue.

Here's the progress on the lower:




The taps are at odd angles because I had to get them in where they along with the rubber hose that will attach to them wouldn't interfere with the gasoline injectors or the fuel rail. That was all part of my location selection. I am trying to decide if I want to go back and smooth out the edge the taps put in the airflow. Some ports, they just do poke through. But they prominently stick into some of the other ports. You can just barely see them in the round ports of the pic showing the taps in runners 5-8. If I do decide to knock them down with a file or porting tool, I'll get pics of the worst offenders before-n-after if anybody is interested.

One of the nice benefits of the lower being black is it hides those welds behind the #1 and #5 intake runners. And BTW, those welds are needed if you do a deep porting job of these GT40 lowers. My original weld-up job wasn't sufficient. I blew-thru just above it and had to have additional welding done to repair it. Live-n-learn...

_________________
...Always Somethin'

89 Ranger Supercab, 331 w/GT40p heads, ported Explorer lower, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, 1.6RRs, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, Slot Style MAF, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', 8.8" rear w/3.27s, Powertrax Locker, Innovate LC-1, GUFB, Moates QuarterHorse tuned using BE&EA

Member V8-Ranger.com