Well, I finally got my lower ported out like I want, cleaned up, and painted. The last thing for me to do to it is drill and tap the lower for the NatGas inlet taps. I've already got my locations punched. I just need to confirm the thickness at those locations is adequate and not paper-thin due to my porting. I don't believe there'll be any problems since the vast amount of my porting was to obstructions in the flow near the ports, not in the runners so much.
I've also got the upper coated in gasket remover to soften the powdercoat so I can knock off the loose powdercoating and repaint it to get it looking good. Once I get those 2 things done, I can get them bolted onto the engine and that should be about it for my engine. At that point, it'll be time to start thinking about when to get it swapped for the engine I'm driving on now. I'm probably also going to install as much of the NatGas conversion onto the truck before the swap so most of it will already be there when I get to the engine swap. The engine swap will also include replacement of a few other things in the engine bay, particularly my steering box which as been leaking for years now, but it's not been critical enough for me to care. But while I'm in there with the engine out of the way, it'll be a conveneint time to do that too. I'm just hoping the engine swap can literally be done in a weekend. I don't know why it couldn't. But as we all know...things happen.
Oh yeah, and I still need to make up as much of the injector wiring as I can before installation. Thanks to BIGDATOWN for getting me in contact with 90MustangLX. He had one of those salt-n-pepper extension cables that I determined I could use as a means to splice together a custom CNG injector harness with.
With that now in hand, I'll be able to splice my CNG injectors, current-limiting resistors, and relays into that extension cable so all that work can be done BEFORE the swap and thus be ready to go when I do the engine swap. Once I get the lower bolted down to the engine, I can loose-fit the upper and fab up a plate to go on those extensions I had welded to the upper.
With a plate fitted, I can then select a good placement and orientation for the injector rails as well as make headway on the custom CNG injector harness. I'm still trying to sort out where I want those current-limiting resistors to go. Do I just want them taped up in-line? That'll bulk-up the thickness of the harness and make it difficult to replace those reisistors if they ever went bad. But it would certainly be a better use of space. The other option is to run long enough runs of wire to locate the resistors on the sides of the engine bay somewhere. That's just a lot of wire to have running back-n-forth across the engine bay. Even wire-loomed, I don't know how neat-n-tidy I can keep that looking.
89 Ranger Supercab, 331 w/GT40p heads, ported Explorer lower, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, 1.6RRs, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, Slot Style MAF, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', 8.8" rear w/3.27s, Powertrax Locker, Innovate LC-1, GUFB, Moates QuarterHorse tuned using BE&EA