My inexperience is showing on this one.

The shaft that spins the oil pump has this little crown on it that sits it ontop of the pump. However my oil pan is already installed and torqued down. I'd like to avoid tearing the pan back off to get this shaft in if possible. But the best I can tell, I'm going to need to remove that crown from the shaft and then somehow guide the shaft down into the engine and onto the pump without letting it fall down into the engine. Any tips on how I do that? The best thing I can come up with is drop it in using my flexible magnetic wand.

If I have to pull the pan, fine. But I'd like to avoid that if possible. So before I attempt it, I thought I'd ask yall what yall'd do.

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...Always Somethin'

89 Ranger Supercab, 331 w/GT40p heads, ported Explorer lower, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, 1.6RRs, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, Slot Style MAF, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', 8.8" rear w/3.27s, Powertrax Locker, Innovate LC-1, GUFB, Moates QuarterHorse tuned using BE&EA

Member V8-Ranger.com

If it's a stock diameter shaft, you can do as you said, remove the stop and slide it down from the top.
Easier to do if the timing cover is off as you can guide it.

If crown is the slide on washer looking thingy, the stop, you can do with out that. It's meant to be closer to the top and prevent the shaft from accidentally coming out of the pump and falling in when you remove the distributor. As some times with mileage and time, it can get a little sticky and wants to stay with the distributor.

I've done it but using a 1/4" drive socket and long extension.

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85GT, 302 w/Dart Windsor Jr heads, Crane 2030 equiv. Performer 5.0, 75mm TB, 88mm slot MAF, 34lbs injectors, BBK shorties, 5spd converted to 4R70W with Baumann controller, 9" rear w/3.25s
A9L running A9P bin via Quarterhorse w/LC-1 WB

Chris,
I would pull the pan back off and install that stop, can you imagine the frustration of
priming the motor and pulling the drill out only to realize the oil shaft is laying in the
bottom of the oil pan after you installed the motor. Don't even second guess this one...

The washer stop goes on the top of the shaft, not near the oil pump, it stops the shaft from being
pulled out during distributor removal. The oil pump needs removed and the oil pump shaft
needs to be installed with the stop washer first, THEN reinstall the oil pump lining up shaft to oil pump drive, AND DON,T FORGET THE OIL PUMP TO BLOCK GASKET AND THE PICKUP TO
OIL PUMP GASKET... Use locktite sealant too, can't remember if it's the red or blue but
use that which is oil resistant.

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4400lb 90 MarkVII, KB Blowzilla2.2, 333ci Boss block, A9l BE/EA GUFB, AFX Wideband, PLX EGT&Boost modules, 80mmTB, C&L 85mm Maf, 4" fender CAI, 48lb inj. 255 lph, AFR165/Nos exhaust ports, 1.6r.r, Cammotion cam 220/220 278/278 579/579 114, Meth inj. 50/50 18gph, 175hp NOS Dry, Ported stock lower 265avg@28", 1 3/4'' shorties, 2800 PI Convertor, 3.73, Hyfire CD IGN, 200 amp alt, 306ci old motor best 1.560 60' 7.40@92 11.63@117 with 125nos on MT radials.

I did the same thing when assembling my engine. I just used a magnet to get mine in and it is not easy to do. It has a guide hole it goes through but the top of the drive shaft sits lower than the top of it. So the magnet likes to stick to the side of that hole and not let it stay centered. If you find a better way let me know as mine has come out when taking the distributor back out. I'm thinking about just attaching it to the distributor some how.

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1990 Mustang 302 TFS heads 1.6rr Track Heat Intake F303 Cam 9.0:1 75mm Throttle body EGR delete plate 1 5/8 long tubes C&L 73mm maf 30lb Injectors Aeromotive regulator 190lph fuel pump MSD digital 6 3g alternator Electric water pump and Fan 3.73 Autometer WB Binary Editor Quarterhorse.

That's exactly what I was thinking...silicone gasket the rod to the bottom of the distributor. I can prime the engine with a different rod.

_________________
...Always Somethin'

89 Ranger Supercab, 331 w/GT40p heads, ported Explorer lower, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, 1.6RRs, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, Slot Style MAF, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', 8.8" rear w/3.27s, Powertrax Locker, Innovate LC-1, GUFB, Moates QuarterHorse tuned using BE&EA

Member V8-Ranger.com

Forgot to mention if you don't go with the silicone route it's not to bad if you have a long pair of needle nose pliers.

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1990 Mustang 302 TFS heads 1.6rr Track Heat Intake F303 Cam 9.0:1 75mm Throttle body EGR delete plate 1 5/8 long tubes C&L 73mm maf 30lb Injectors Aeromotive regulator 190lph fuel pump MSD digital 6 3g alternator Electric water pump and Fan 3.73 Autometer WB Binary Editor Quarterhorse.

I'll start off with the silicone fitted rod to the distributor, see how that works, and if that doesn't work out well for whatever reason, I'll report back why that didn't work well for me. But I'm not sure why that wouldn't work.

_________________
...Always Somethin'

89 Ranger Supercab, 331 w/GT40p heads, ported Explorer lower, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, 1.6RRs, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, Slot Style MAF, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', 8.8" rear w/3.27s, Powertrax Locker, Innovate LC-1, GUFB, Moates QuarterHorse tuned using BE&EA

Member V8-Ranger.com

How difficult is it to remove the pan once the engine is in the truck? If you ever pull the distributor at some point down the road, and hear that sickening "clink" as that shaft disappears into the oil pan.....30 minutes of your time and another pan gasket NOW will seem like a good idea.

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FFR Cobra Replica - Dart SHP 347, TFS heads, custom cam, GT40 intake, 75MM TB, 42lb Injectors, ProM 80, A9L/GUFB, Innovate MTX-L, Moates QH, BE/EA

I have to agree with the guys that say pull the pan and put it on that way. It's a PITA, but for all the hard work you've put into this engine, you should do it the right way

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1978 Mustang II King Cobra
89 5.0HO, Stock Short Block, Edelbrock 4bbl aluminum intake, Holley 650 double pumper, MSD 6AL, Ford F303 cam, 1.7:1 Crane Roller Rockers, Pocket Ported stock heads, Hedman Long Tube Headers
5 spd Manual
Full roll cage, 9" full floater w/Currie trac lock/373 gears, RCI Fuel Cell
Project Page: http://www.brandttuning.com/projects.htm

It makes absolutely no since not to pull the pan off with the engine out. Come on Chris, you are meticulous and thorough about every thing. Its nothing but pure lazyness to do the incorrect way.

How do you think the rtv will hold up with all that pressure against it while turning the oil pump. Then a PIP sensor fails, then what? If you don't do it just to be doing it the correct way, at least do it for a peace of mind.

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89 Coupe- Canfield 195's, Holley Systemax II, CI cam, 24# Inj, 05 Slot MAF, 75mm TB
BBK 1 3/4 LT's, 3"Exhaust, 3"Spintech's, T-5 Trans, QH 1.4, AEM WB, BE/EA: A9L-GUFB

just super glue the shaft in the distributor and dropped it in

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http://www.efidynotuning.com/ford/

Yall convinced me. I went to AutoZone and got another gasket. I'll pull the oil pan and see if I can't get it setup the way it is supposed to be.

_________________
...Always Somethin'

89 Ranger Supercab, 331 w/GT40p heads, ported Explorer lower, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, 1.6RRs, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, Slot Style MAF, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', 8.8" rear w/3.27s, Powertrax Locker, Innovate LC-1, GUFB, Moates QuarterHorse tuned using BE&EA

Member V8-Ranger.com

What gasket are you using that would require replacing?

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89 Coupe- Canfield 195's, Holley Systemax II, CI cam, 24# Inj, 05 Slot MAF, 75mm TB
BBK 1 3/4 LT's, 3"Exhaust, 3"Spintech's, T-5 Trans, QH 1.4, AEM WB, BE/EA: A9L-GUFB

The rubberized oil pan gasket. Last time I used one, the instructions said NOT to use silicone gasket on them as it isn't needed. I found otherwise with the 302 that's in the engine bay now. It leaks around the pan gasket...not a lot, but enough that this time I wanted to use the silicone gasket to ensure it doesn't leak. I suspect the pan won't come back off as nice with that stuff. Had I not done that, the pan probably would've come right off without a problem.

_________________
...Always Somethin'

89 Ranger Supercab, 331 w/GT40p heads, ported Explorer lower, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, 1.6RRs, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, Slot Style MAF, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', 8.8" rear w/3.27s, Powertrax Locker, Innovate LC-1, GUFB, Moates QuarterHorse tuned using BE&EA

Member V8-Ranger.com

Well, I got the oil pan off and the old gasket released from the pan without any issue and the gasket looked more than pliable to reuse. So I recoated it with gasket seal after installing the shaft. Done.

_________________
...Always Somethin'

89 Ranger Supercab, 331 w/GT40p heads, ported Explorer lower, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, 1.6RRs, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, Slot Style MAF, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', 8.8" rear w/3.27s, Powertrax Locker, Innovate LC-1, GUFB, Moates QuarterHorse tuned using BE&EA

Member V8-Ranger.com

/thumbsup

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1978 Mustang II King Cobra
89 5.0HO, Stock Short Block, Edelbrock 4bbl aluminum intake, Holley 650 double pumper, MSD 6AL, Ford F303 cam, 1.7:1 Crane Roller Rockers, Pocket Ported stock heads, Hedman Long Tube Headers
5 spd Manual
Full roll cage, 9" full floater w/Currie trac lock/373 gears, RCI Fuel Cell
Project Page: http://www.brandttuning.com/projects.htm