Is there an easy way to determine if you need more fuel or less fuel at cold start? When I go out to start my car on a cold start it cranks for maybe 3 or 4 seconds and almost starts, then if I let her crank for a few more seconds it'll hit and start. I'm wondering if there is an easy way to determine if she needs more or less fuel? and is there a suggestion on how much of a jump to make when trying? 10%? 20%?
I believe my cranking table is just the stock values multiplied by 19/30 to compensate for the injectors. Then I multiplied that value by 15% because of the extra cubes over a 302. That sound like the right direction?
Thanks

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1937 Ford Coupe, 351C 4v, Comp cam HR224/232, T5, A9L, Lightning MAF, FMS 30lb injectors, with Qhorse and BE.

First off, differentiate between crank and start. Crank is the mode the EEC is in when the starter is actaully running. Start/warmup is the mode immediately after crank where the EEC over-richens while the engine is cold to keep the engine running smooth until the engine is closer to running temps.

If you are talking about crank. This one is simple. There's a fairly wide range of acceptable fuel that the EEC could squirt and still get the engine to start. Usually problems here are due to under-fueling. While possible, you usually don't usually flood an engine with EFI without doing something very wrong often hardware related. For instance, leaky injectors could do this. Over-pressured fuel rail delivering way too much fuel. Larger injectors than expected.

For start, this one is fairly easy if you have a wideband. First off, you want to be rich. Anything richer than stoic is probably fine but once the engine is running and the mix is rich, fuel the engine to where it idles somewhat smooth. Now this may require a higher idle until the engine warms up a bit in order to get a smooth idle while in start mode. Generally anything in the .90-.98 lambda (13.0-14.5 AFRg) range is going to get a decent idle. Now this makes the assumption that your WB can be trusted at idle and near-idle conditions. If you got a big cam, then the WB may report much leaner than actual. In these cases, experiment around and don't be afraid to let the engine go what appears to be lean if the engine likes it. Common reports are that 1.05-1.10 (15-16 AFRg) are not unexpected on big cams for near stoic and slightly rich mixes.

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...Always Somethin'

89 Ranger Supercab, 331 w/GT40p heads, ported Explorer lower, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, 1.6RRs, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, Slot Style MAF, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', 8.8" rear w/3.27s, Powertrax Locker, Innovate LC-1, GUFB, Moates QuarterHorse tuned using BE&EA

Member V8-Ranger.com

My issue is cranking I believe. I believe the car never gets to starting mode. As I crank it the car may hit on a few cylinders for just a second but it never fires enough to where I even get to let off the key. I think I'll try increasing the fuel some and seeing what happens.

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1937 Ford Coupe, 351C 4v, Comp cam HR224/232, T5, A9L, Lightning MAF, FMS 30lb injectors, with Qhorse and BE.

im going to go out on a limb here but i would expect your setup listed in your sig to probably want about 6ms at 40 degrees

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http://www.efidynotuning.com/ford/

Thank you for throwing out a number as something to compare to. I realize cold starts are more of an issue depending upon where you live and it can be cold here. Some people are lucky enough to not even know what a cold start is.

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1937 Ford Coupe, 351C 4v, Comp cam HR224/232, T5, A9L, Lightning MAF, FMS 30lb injectors, with Qhorse and BE.