I copied this from the faq submission forum. Many thanks to those who contributed.

Normal procedure is to disconnect the battery positive terminal for 30 minutes, and this flushes the KAM. However, there is a quicker way. Someone else suggested this, so I'm not going to take credit for it. Sorry, I can't remember who said it though.

Anyways, disconnect the battery positive terminal, and then press and hold the brake pedal for a minute. Reconnect the battery and you're all set. Holding the brake pedal drains any residual energy out of the capacitors and stuff quicker then letting them decay by themselves. It works! I just tried it on my car. Started it up and datalogged right away... KAMRF values were 1.000
Thanks to "Twinturbostang", Brian

Kam switch: installation/operation [Mustang]
Kam requires a constant 12V supply to retain it’s memory,it receives the supply from “keep alive power”on pin #1 [86’-95’] or pin # 55 [96’-?] .
On pre-94’you can access the feed for pin #1 at the EEC power relay[behind the R.H. kick panel]. Once you locate the feed wire for pin #1 [color of wire depends on year of car],cut the wire & install a male-female connector to join the wire back together[make the wire’s long enough so the connector can be accessed after the kick panel is installed].
Install the female end of the connector on the feed side of the wire[12V] , install the male end of the connector on the pin #1 side of the wire [0V] & plug the connector together.
To clear KAM all you need to do is turn the key “off” unplug the newly installed connector & momentarily ground the male side of the connector[this will erease the KAM ], plug the connector back together & you are good to go.
You could install a remote switch as I did but it requires more wiring to be done.[k.i.s.s.]

Happy tuning,

Brian
Thanks to "Thunderstang"

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96 GT, Vortech Si trim,Procharger 3 core intercooler, forged bottom end, MAC longtubes, ported PI heads , Edelbrock intake, Crower cams-.580lift/234dur@.050, 80lb injectors, CDAN4/GGL4 processor.

Does anybody find this helpful? Is it a frequently enough discussed/needed topic that it should be in the FAQ section? If not, then I'm going to move it somewhere else.

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...Always Somethin'

89 Ranger Supercab, 331 w/GT40p heads, ported Explorer lower, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, 1.6RRs, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, Slot Style MAF, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', 8.8" rear w/3.27s, Powertrax Locker, Innovate LC-1, GUFB, Moates QuarterHorse tuned using BE&EA

Member V8-Ranger.com

I wouldn't necessarily say that the question is "frequently asked," but I would consider it VERY useful and a must-read by everyone that uses a TwEECer.


Although, one important thing to add to boss96's post is that you must disconnect the USB connection to the TwEECer while attempting to clear the KAM's. Otherwise, the power from the laptop's USB line will be enough to keep the KAM's alive and you'll never clear them.

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'88 Mustang LX coupe, 5-spd
418w, TW heads Stage III, 90mm TB, TFS-R Intake, 95mm PMAS MAF, BBK LT, 3" VRS X-pipe, 3" Borla Pro-XS mufflers, 1.7 RR, 255lph, AFPR = 40psi, EEC A9P

Since I personally don't use this method to clear KAMs but rather use an invalid BIN file like a CBAZA BIN, I never have to worry about whether the USB is connected. Flipping to a J4J1.bin in my TwEECer does all the clearing of the KAMs I need and does it in less than a second. In addition, it runs the fuel pump as soon as I flip to that tune. So I simply listen for the fuel pump. As soon as I hear it kick on, I flip it back to my tune.

The only downfall I've found to this is if I begin datalogging before I crank the motor once after doing this, then the KAMRF values datalogged may be as high as 128 which will throw BE's calculation of MPG even if its only a few lines at the beginning of the log.

_________________
...Always Somethin'

89 Ranger Supercab, 331 w/GT40p heads, ported Explorer lower, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, 1.6RRs, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, Slot Style MAF, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', 8.8" rear w/3.27s, Powertrax Locker, Innovate LC-1, GUFB, Moates QuarterHorse tuned using BE&EA

Member V8-Ranger.com

Also, Clint has that nice little scalar in Binary Editor called Z_KAMCLR. All you have to do is start up using a tune with that scaler enabled, shut the engine off and restart with the real tune that you want. The wrong strat method worked well for me also but as I recall, that would cause problems with some strats.

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'86 Mustang Coupe, MegaSquirt 2 extra, 2.3T w/ Holset HX35, T-5, 3.73 gears

'94 Ranger extended cab beater truck, 2.3T stock swap, T-5, Moates QH

just a warning for those with ecu's that control transmissions, clearing the kams will clear tv pressure lol

=not good

I have master battery kill switch, so does that mean that every night my KAMs will reset?
I found scaller to reset kams in TunerPro RT, but when it's enabled value is 235D, does anybody knows what value is to disable? So I could change it to this value and then back to 235D?

yeah u need kap for kam

keep alive power
keep alive memory

look in the be def file gufb.xls

Should I wire ECU power in before the switch? Do I want to keep alive memory, or it's ok to start fresh every time when I drive? This is not for a daily driver, it will be used on the weekends during summer.

I found the reset value, it's 2382, then back to 235D. Thanks

i would leave it how it is, as long as your fuel and air is dialed in it wont make any difference