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PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 1:35 am 
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So I just Installed a quarter horse chip on my 1990 mustang and now car wont start. Car ran before the chip install. I took the chip out and car still wont start with no other changes. It is getting spark but the injectors are not firing. When I tried to read the factory cal it said it couldn't. So I tried to koeo test the eec and nothing happened. This could be because its a 1988 car and 1990 eec with some jenky dash wiring. Is there any other ways to test it? Any and all help is appreciated thanks!

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1990 Mustang 302 TFS heads 1.6rr Track Heat Intake F303 Cam 9.0:1 75mm Throttle body EGR delete plate 1 5/8 long tubes C&L 73mm maf 30lb Injectors Aeromotive regulator 190lph fuel pump MSD digital 6 3g alternator Electric water pump and Fan 3.73 Autometer WB Binary Editor Quarterhorse.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 6:18 am 
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What you are describing is common if you installed the chip with power still turned ON to the EEC. If the EEC is powered (key turned with ignition ON), then that's a sure-fire way to fry the EEC and likely the chip too. If the EEC functioned normally without the chip connected, I'd wonder if you forgot to load tunes into the chip before connecting it. Moates hardware delivers empty. It's up to the user to put valid tunes into the devices before they are usable by the EEC. However if after removing the chip, the EEC still won't function and the fuel pump stays ON constantly, then you are now the proud owner of a fried EEC.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 10:37 am 
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I installed the eec back in the car with power off and I loaded a tune to the chip. My fuel pump runs off a toggle switch. I tried putting the relay in the car for it and nothing happens and when I jump the high current wires for it they get really hot. I will try it again though maybe something will happen now that it is possibly fried.

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1990 Mustang 302 TFS heads 1.6rr Track Heat Intake F303 Cam 9.0:1 75mm Throttle body EGR delete plate 1 5/8 long tubes C&L 73mm maf 30lb Injectors Aeromotive regulator 190lph fuel pump MSD digital 6 3g alternator Electric water pump and Fan 3.73 Autometer WB Binary Editor Quarterhorse.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 8:21 pm 
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If your wiring is questionable, you can check to make sure the eec is getting a good ground. Pins 20,40, and 60 are grounds for the eec. This are numbered on the connector (you have to disconnect to see it). Basically just check the resistance between each of those to a good chassis ground. You want very very little resistance - practically 0. Mine had fried an eec before and before I discovered it was the eec, I remember reading to check this also just to make sure the eec was getting a good ground. Just a thought.

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1988 Mustang GT
351W .030 over
10:1 compression
GT40X FRPP heads
GT40 tubular intake
Ford Racing X303 cam
FRPP 1.6 roller rockers
FRPP 30lb injectors
70 mm BBK throttle body
75 mm Pro M mass air
5 speed
3.73 gear
A9P EEC GUF1
BE/EA


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 9:23 pm 
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I put the stock fuel pump relay back in and the pump did not come on with the key on still. The quarter horse is still good BE can still read the tune I loaded into it. Nothing is pointing either way besides the car not running. So I ordered a new eec. I will check for good ground on the those pins before I pick it up.

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1990 Mustang 302 TFS heads 1.6rr Track Heat Intake F303 Cam 9.0:1 75mm Throttle body EGR delete plate 1 5/8 long tubes C&L 73mm maf 30lb Injectors Aeromotive regulator 190lph fuel pump MSD digital 6 3g alternator Electric water pump and Fan 3.73 Autometer WB Binary Editor Quarterhorse.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 10:41 pm 
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you should have upgraded to a 94-95 ecu

if your wiring is junk anywho it wouldn't of been much extra work to move a few pins around

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 10:51 pm 
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5literchevyeater wrote:
I put the stock fuel pump relay back in and the pump did not come on with the key on still. The quarter horse is still good BE can still read the tune I loaded into it. Nothing is pointing either way besides the car not running. So I ordered a new eec. I will check for good ground on the those pins before I pick it up.
There are 2 parts to the QH. One is the microprocessor. That's what BE talks to over the USB port to load your tunes into memory. The other part is the CPLD. That's the part that serves the tune in memory to the EEC over the J3 port. It's possible for the micro to still be operational and thus still communicate with BE, but the CPLD be fried. The only way you'll know is if a known good EEC will run your tune with the QH.

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89 Ranger Supercab, 331 w/GT40p heads, ported Explorer lower, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, 1.6RRs, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, Slot Style MAF, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', 8.8" rear w/3.27s, Powertrax Locker, Innovate LC-1, GUFB, Moates QuarterHorse tuned using BE&EA

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