I got the regulators, isolation valve, hardline, and much of the rubber line installed. The major things left now are wiring. I've got a wiring harness already made up, but there are relays to be mounted, cab switch to be installed, injector start-power line to be connected up to the starter power, and route the wire to the isolation valve. It's not a lot of work left, but it's more than I had time to deal with today. Here's what I was able to get done:
CNG_Hardline_To_Tank.jpg [ 41.43 KiB | Viewed 203 times ]
The black duct tape on the tank is to protect the tank from my mountain bike. When I put it in the bed, that's where the handlebar grip ring and brake handle contact the tank. It was starting to make little scuffs in the tank and being the tank is fiberglass, I didn't want it tearing into the fiberglass. So I put the tape in those areas and now there's no tank damage from the bike. You can almost see the CNG refueling fitting mounted directly to the tank valve. It's got a SnapTite rubber cover on it which has a green cord tether.
CNG_Hardline_To_IsoValve.jpg [ 44.51 KiB | Viewed 203 times ]
If CNG refueling stations become more popular in my area, I have room to install a coalescent filter, but only just barely. Although for the time being, my CNG compressor has a coalescent filter inside it so I don't need a high pressure coalescent filter on the truck too. Although if CNG refueling stations become more popular in my area, I may need to install one. I'll have to move the isolation valve up closer to the bed and then install the coalescent filter between the iso valve and first regulator.
CNG_Regulators_On_Frame.jpg [ 54.48 KiB | Viewed 203 times ]
I wanted to get the regulators closer to the engine bay, but I just couldn't find a feasible place to mount them. There was either obstructions to get a drill on the frame, obstructions to get the hoses on the regulators, or a location the wheel would potentially scrub the regulators or hoses on a tight turn. So for my own safety, I decided to locate them on the mid-section of the passenger side frame.
The rubber hose connected to the front of each regulator is the low pressure (~30PSI) NatGas supply line. There's also vacuum line going to the top of each regulator that regulates the supply line pressure in the same way the vacuum line on FPRs regulates the fuel line pressure in fuel rails. The rubber hose that's going between the two regulators is a coolant line. I didn't complete coolant connections to the regulators because I didn't have enough hose to get coolant plumbed in. The CNG kit came with Tee fittings that will go in-line with the heater core hoses to give me a coolant supply & return tap basically putting the CNG regulators in parallel with the heater core. Each tap goes to each regulator. It was just simpler to plumb the regulators in series. I'm not yet convinced the regulators will get so cold that they'll need
coolant to keep them from frosting up like Propane regulators most definitely would. Anybody that has ever recharged an AC system with a refrigerant can knows liquid-to-gas conversions will frost very quickly.
LowPressue_NatGas_Filters.jpg [ 66.67 KiB | Viewed 203 times ]
I wanted the filters further down so one isn't sitting right on top of the radiator like that but the lengths of line I had just didn't make that possible. I still have an opportunity to get them lower in the engine bay. I have 3 Tee fittings I bought in the event I find I need to equalize the pressure between the two lines. If one regulator runs slightly higher pressure than the other, I can setup the Tees to make an H-pipe that will ensure the pressure both CNG fuel injector rails receive is the same. But for now, I'm going to see if I can forgo that complication AND all those hose clamps.
NatGas_Lines_To_Injector_Rails.jpg [ 77.98 KiB | Viewed 203 times ]
Nothing really new here from previous pics. I do need to get some more hose clamps for the rails. I thought I had enough. I'll pick them up when I get more rubber hose to plumb in the coolant lines.
89 Ranger Supercab, 331 w/GT40p heads, ported Explorer lower, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, 1.6RRs, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, Slot Style MAF, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', 8.8" rear w/3.27s, Powertrax Locker, Innovate LC-1, GUFB, Moates QuarterHorse tuned using BE&EA