I didn't think this would be tricky but for me, it is.

The car is a 1994 GT.

I purchased the PLX M-300. I wish to wire in the new O2 sensor, wire the wideband output to the EVP sensor and also wire in the narrowband into the passenger O2 sensor (assuming passenger side is the one used when running only one sensor). I'm looking for any tips that will help this install.

What points did you chose for both power and ground?

First, I'm finding it difficult to run the wiring from inside the car into the engine bay. Most obvious is to follow the main wiring harness from the EEC. There is an appearent pathway going from the upper kickpanel out into an opening between the passenger firewall and fender behind the shock tower. What tips will let me run this wiring? Is there an alternate (perhaps easier) location?

Where did you tap into the wiring harness to utilize the EVP? The instructions say closest to the EEC as possible. I want to be sure before I start cutting. Cutting the wiring harness mades me nervous.

Ditto for the O2 sensor. How did you tap into this? I'm am uncertain if I will take this step. The only way this would be advantageous is if I can tune the car to idle well at stoich and reenable closed-loop. Current it idles best at (guessing here) 12.5-13.1.

What is the most desired way of splicing the wires. Use those little connectors where you slide in the two ends and smash it with pliers? Or soder and shrinkwrap?

Any tips that will prevent me from learning this the hard way would be greatly appreciated.

Daren

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94GT, AFR165, E303, 1.72 RR, GT-40 Intake, 70mm TB, 24lb inj, ProM 75, BBK LT, J4J1, PLX M-300 WB

Well, I've figured one thing out, you have to pull the fender liner. This open all kinds of doors. I have the sensor wired from under the car into the interior. I now need to add extensions to the power, ground and EVP output. I'm off to the store for supplies.

If you know the answer for the best place to tap into a power source and ground, please offer a recommendation. Ground is clearly the battery unless someone has a better place to recommend.

Daren

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94GT, AFR165, E303, 1.72 RR, GT-40 Intake, 70mm TB, 24lb inj, ProM 75, BBK LT, J4J1, PLX M-300 WB

I had an FJO in my 94, and for power I just tapped into the stock O2 sensor power wire. However I was still using both O2 sensors and had a new bung welded in for the WB O2. Don't know if this helps, but that's what I did and it worked fine. Have fun.

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Klondike (aka Chuck)

2003 Mach 1 DSG

94GT - sold

Mission accomplished

Whew. This little task took me about 9 hours including about 4 trips to buy odds and ends. Fortunently there weren't any hard lessons. With a little problem solving and patience I finished without any mistakes.

I did the nerdy thing and took some digital photos of the effort and will post the lessons learned on my website so that it might help others. If I had known a few things before I started I could have easily shaved two thirds of the time.

I've taken a brief test drive. My first observations suggest I installed it correctly. I'm seeing a very lean idle though the exhaust is rich enough to burn my eyes. I've also noticed that the CalCon A/F is off by about a half point compared to the controller's display. The most significant observations is the measured A/F ratio is NOWHERE near LAMBSE.

I'll mess around for a while and post any questions that come up.

Daren

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94GT, AFR165, E303, 1.72 RR, GT-40 Intake, 70mm TB, 24lb inj, ProM 75, BBK LT, J4J1, PLX M-300 WB

Sounds like Daren's tune is gonna be a'changin'...


If I ever get my car back together from my mk8 fan install, mine's gonna change as well.

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Richard White
X3Z, RT, GT40y's, ported intakes, Steeda #18, AFM PP, 80mm Pro-M, MSD, MAC E/L, Dr Gas X, 3.73, etc.

I do Reproduction Mustang Window Stickers!

"Tweecer Defs" http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/twe ... mentation/

I posted some information about the SN-95 install that the instructions don't tell ya. This will be pretty remedial for some but I would like to have read something like it to speed the install so it might be helpful for some.

http://home.austin.rr.com/dwoodall/wbo2_install.htm

Daren

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94GT, AFR165, E303, 1.72 RR, GT-40 Intake, 70mm TB, 24lb inj, ProM 75, BBK LT, J4J1, PLX M-300 WB

Changing indeed. I've already learned the standard PROM-24 provided by TwEECer is way too lean for my application. I've confirmed that my bucking symptom was a result of this lean condition at cruise. I've found the idle A/F ratio is out of wack. I TwEEC'd the fuel tables and got it idling solid at 14.3-14.6 and it's idling smoother then ever. I just need to TwEEC the MAF Transfer so that the idle LAMBSE matches the true A/F ratio. I can get this cleaned up tomorrow.

Life is way easier with a WB. EEC Analyzer is a big help as well. I regret not getting one earlier.

Daren

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94GT, AFR165, E303, 1.72 RR, GT-40 Intake, 70mm TB, 24lb inj, ProM 75, BBK LT, J4J1, PLX M-300 WB

Tell me about it.

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Saleen/Vortech Intake / AFR 165 Heads
Engle GHR 218/224 HYD Camshaft
1989 Saleen Coupe # 653 *****

Darren,

Great writeup. The wiring diagram looks so simple until you have to get the wires from point A to point B. This might be a dumb question, but when you tap the WB output to the EVP signal, do you leave the EVP connected? If not, what does the EEC do with the WB signal as opposed to the EVP signal? From what I understand, the WB replaces the EVP signal so that it has a path to get to the TwEECer. That has to have some impact on the EEC. I'll go search the posts to see if this has been answered already, but I thought I would ask since it looks like you have already done your homework. Enjoy your new toy.

Barney

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95 GT Vert, 76 mm C&L, 24 lb Injectors, Performer 50 Intake, 65 mm FRP TB, Ceramic Coated FRP Shortie Headers, TwEECer RT 1.30A9, W4H0, Adj. FPR, 255 lph, March Pulleys, 180 deg tstat, Blaster TFI Coil, 3.73 Gear, SpeedCal, 2031 cam, Crane 1.7 RR.

As a prerequist, the EGR must be disabled using TwEECer. With this setting disabled, the EEC ignores any voltage signal on that line however the EVP voltage can be read and datalogged by TwEECer. CalCon combines this voltage signal and using a selected EVP transfer coverts it to A/F ratio.

By leaving the EVP connected the issues arises that I noted in red on my site. There is a trace signal of about .5 volts on the return line inspite of the EGR being "closed". The .5 volts is accumulative with the voltage coming from the WB controller. This throws off the EVP Transfer table in CalCon. This can be remedied by creating your own EVP transfer which can be a bit tedious.

I have chosen to leave the EVP connected because I had concerns about the absent 5 volt reference signal causing the EEC to throw a code indicated the EVP is disconnected. I was also not thrilled with the idea of cutting the return signal wire from the sensor.

I also need to figure out what I'm going to do with with my currently disconnected passenger side O2 sensor. I used the passenger side bung for my WB with the intent of wiring it's narrowband output into the factory O2 return line. I did experience a check engine light on one test drive. Though I didn't check the code I'm pretty certain it is my disconnect passenger O2. I hoped to remedy that by setting my "number of HEGO" scalar to 0. This didn't work. Some have said doing this shuts off one bank of injectors. This is what appeared to happen to me.

A little bit of experimentation should clear up these open questions.

Any advice on these remaining steps would be appreciated.

Daren

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94GT, AFR165, E303, 1.72 RR, GT-40 Intake, 70mm TB, 24lb inj, ProM 75, BBK LT, J4J1, PLX M-300 WB

Daren,

Thanks for the info on disabling the EGR to enable the TwEECer to use the WB input.

Did you add a 20 ohm resistor across the O2 Heater Power and O2 Heater Ground? If not, you will throw a code. There's a good app note on how to use the narrowband output of the unit.

http://www.plxdevices.com/PLXApp004.htm

You should be able to connect up the NB signal and use it just like you would a normal NB O2 sensor. You shouldn't have to mess with any EEC settings. The "number of HEGO" scalar should remain at 2 and the "Injector Output Port" table" should remain unchanged as well. You will need to tap the NB output of the WB controller into the NB input of the EEC and everything should work (in theory).

Good luck.

Barney

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95 GT Vert, 76 mm C&L, 24 lb Injectors, Performer 50 Intake, 65 mm FRP TB, Ceramic Coated FRP Shortie Headers, TwEECer RT 1.30A9, W4H0, Adj. FPR, 255 lph, March Pulleys, 180 deg tstat, Blaster TFI Coil, 3.73 Gear, SpeedCal, 2031 cam, Crane 1.7 RR.

What you're saying is stated in the instructions but there are a few un-seen gotchas such as where to mount the resistor? It appearently gets pretty hot. I've looked under there and there is little to strap it to. I don't really want to get into pulling up the carpet and drilling holes.

I have a couple of paths here:

-I can wire in a resistor as the instructions state. Mounting it is the problem.

-I can figure out how to disable the O2 sensors in TwEECer. Someone posted something to this effect and I will give it a try.

-I can return the factory O2 to original location and connect it properly. Add a bung for the WB and leave everything else as it was. Probably my cleanest option.

I've run full time open-loop for the past year and a half because of issues caused by the long-tube headers therefore I'm not optimistic about using the controller's narrowband output unless I can successfully disable one O2 sensor in TwEECer. This just may not be worth the trouble. I mean, using the WB, I have predictable control over my fuel tables, a near dead-on MAF transfer. The car is running well. I now need to focus on idle. The WB read lean at idle though I'm certain it is rich. I think the cam or something is causing mis-firing or unburned O2 being pumped into the exhaust. This is really making it difficult to get this as good as I want.

Thanks for the input,

Daren

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94GT, AFR165, E303, 1.72 RR, GT-40 Intake, 70mm TB, 24lb inj, ProM 75, BBK LT, J4J1, PLX M-300 WB

Darren

I don't think the NB of the sensor is like the factory units, when it comes to the heat questions. The WB units use an internal heater when ever needed, unlike the Stock ones that only heatup during startup. You could probably uses the narrow band as a replacement to the factory and not have the issues caused by the headers. It might be worth trying it. Since you have OL forced, it would be intresting to see what the difference is between the PLX NB and the factory one. This would prove the heater theory and the long tube header theory.

You would not have to change your TwEECer file at all. All you would have to do is log both O2's and see the results.

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The goal of integrating the NB emulation would be to get around the long-tube heating issue and re-enable adaptive. For this to work completely, I would still have to disable my driver's side O2 sensor because it will screw with the fuel trim on that bank.

Here is what I'm going to do... Get a new bung welded in. Reinstall my factory o2 sensor. Connect the NB output of the controller to the return wire of the factory O2 sensor. By doing this, I can potentially use the WB with NB emulation for adaptive and still have the factory heating circuit intact.

I hope to avoid the extra cost of the bung. Oh well. pthornton has already offered a inexpensive location in town to get this done. This will be the cleanest arrangement and make available all opportunities.

Daren

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94GT, AFR165, E303, 1.72 RR, GT-40 Intake, 70mm TB, 24lb inj, ProM 75, BBK LT, J4J1, PLX M-300 WB

That is what I was saying. Use the NB of the WB in place of the factory passenger side O2. In this case you would be able to use the bung where the factory one was located. You would then leave the driverside alone with the factory O2.

There should be no difference in doing this. The only thing that might arise, is if the NB on the WB is heat controlled. If this is the case then yes the KAMRF would be different from one another at an idle where the temperature is to low for the factory O2. This would however prove that the factory O2's are not getting up to temperature. This is when the second bung can be welded in.

I just thought that it might save you the second bung, but it may not. It all depend on weather or not the NB of the WB is temperature controlled.

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I might have missed this in your post but it appears that one thing is missing from your suggestion. The one remaining thing is the factory O2 sensors are heated by the EEC, if I don't have a place holder for that heating circuit, I get a diagnostic code (check engine light). The code is probably harmless and I can still perform the test you suggest. But eventually, I have to solve that problem as well. Leaving the stock O2 in place appears to offer the most convenient way to completing the EEC's heating circuit.

Just so we are clear on this, the narrowband output for the wideband does not come directly from the WB O2 sensor but is emulated by the controller. Because of this, the NB and WB have the same temperature requirements. Appearently the WB O2 does not require nearly as much heat at the factory narrowband O2 sensors do. In the end, the WB sensor can replace the factory NB output but it cannot replace the heating circuit. Something must play that role.

Daren

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94GT, AFR165, E303, 1.72 RR, GT-40 Intake, 70mm TB, 24lb inj, ProM 75, BBK LT, J4J1, PLX M-300 WB

I was unaware of the heater element causing a error code. I thought the sensor return was the only thing causing the error code. I am sure that I have read somewhere that a simple resister can solve this issue.

You are probably right that the simplest wiring would be to place the factory O2 back in and place a new bung for the WB.

I wanted to see, and verify that what is happening on the factory O2's with Long Tube headers is what we have thought along, low temperature. I proved it on my fathers 65 mustang with LT.

I also thought the NB was coming from the WB sensor itself and not the controller. After doing a little research, I would agree with you and use the factory O2's with the WB as only a tuning tool. I would not want to rely on the controller as an intermediate device.

Forgive my ignorance on the WB.

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The included installation guide recommends a resister for this but after spending some time under the car, I don't know where I would mount such a resistor. I'll just let the factory O2 be that resistor even though I will ignore its readings.

Daren

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94GT, AFR165, E303, 1.72 RR, GT-40 Intake, 70mm TB, 24lb inj, ProM 75, BBK LT, J4J1, PLX M-300 WB

Cool, Keep us posted. I am seriously thinking about the WB myself. I just cant see spending the money yet. I am currently replacing all of my gauges with Autometer gauges, and that is setting me back a few hun!!!! The E-Fan is kicking my a@@. I can not find the low speed fan stuff, so I made my own controller for a dual speed fan that also allows for WOT/AC. I want to make it look factory so the cleanliness of the installation maters.

I think the WB will be the next thing, but it will have to wait for the funds.

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Daren,

You say you have gotten your idle rock steady at 14.6 a/f ratio... i am assuming you are still forcing OL at IDLE?

I too am looking into a wb 02 sensor and am just awaiting the sufficient funds to become available. thanks for the wonderful write up, you are going to make my install 10x easier!

Thanks!

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BuGGa: 95 GT: Rebuilt low compression 302... Edelbrock 6037s, Crane 2030, 42#'s, using J4J1 on version 1.20b
---------
TwinTurbo: T3/T4 Hybrids, Intercooled, and some other good stuff......

Daren,

Did you ever run the WB's NB output as input to your EEC to determine if the 'cooling effect' is, in fact, causing problems?

Rick

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I no longer have (but what all my posts refer to):

94GT, 302NA, AFR165, FTI hyd cam, Performer, 24lb-hr @39PSI, 65TB, Pro-M 80 w/ NA 94-95 GT cal, long tubes, egr & smog delete, T-5

TwEECer RT v1.20b3, J4J1 base, PLX M-300 WB, EEC Analyzer

I have not tried using the NB output yet. In reality, I haven't spent much time with the car in quite a while. I've driven it time to time but not much tuning work.

I've been growing more and more suspect of my current tune. I can't seem to figure out what is going in. When using EEC Analyzer, the recommended correction of the MAF to get AFR in line with LAMBSE requires a large correction of the MAF. It suggests my MAF calibration does not match the Pro-M included with TwEECer. It isn't even close. I haven't jumped to the conclusion yet that this is the problem though I may be willing to except the MAF correction as the solution.

Another symptom I am having difficulty with is the idle. The WB reads very lean at idle in spite of the fact the idle smells very rich. I've not come to a conclusion on this. The only way this can be is if unburned O2 is pumped in to the exhaust. Why would this be going on? I can't figure it out. The specs on a E-cam arn't such that overlap is the problem. Therefore, if you consider the fact that the WB reads lean, same as the NB, then the sensor temp isn't the issue after all. Though, still inconclusive.

I have found a way to predictably up the idle spark advance using the global adder and reducing the spark tables proportionally. I'm hoping that the advance idle spark will increase the burn duration and hopefully burn anything unburn currently (if this is the problem at all). My first experiment had interesting results, the added advance allow the EEC to drop ISC duty cycle considerably to hold the same idle RPM. The idle spark was also more steady. Also, the AFR appeared richer then before, but not rich enough. I just need more time on this.

The biggest heart burn I have is the inability to dial in the idle MAF/AFR. Until I get this done, I can't use EEC Analyzer to set my TB airflow and ISC idle airflow. Bummer.

On top of all this, I replaced my intake from a Cobra to a GT-40 and a step to a 70mm TB. It was a cosmetic change primarily but it has created unexpected side effects with the idle.

Tuning this car right is a tedious effort, no doubt about that. I need time and testing if I hope to get to the bottom of all this.

(oop, running out of time, can't proof read. I'll edit the type-os later.)

Daren

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94GT, AFR165, E303, 1.72 RR, GT-40 Intake, 70mm TB, 24lb inj, ProM 75, BBK LT, J4J1, PLX M-300 WB

Darren

You might want to check the seat on the EGR and make sure there is no blow by. It could play havoc on the idle. I know that you have it all disabled through your tune, but the EGR is still in place correct?

You dont have a silent exhaust leak do you?

Just ideas thrown out there.

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just wanted to chime in and say what an interesting thread this is. you all have already answered many of the Q's I had. keep us posted.

Hey Daren,

I was reading about your lean idle and it seems just like mine. Here is a Log Analyst screen shot of my startup. Is this what you are experiencing?



Red - AFR
Green - RPM
Yellow - HEGO1
Blue - HEGO2
Grey - LAMBSE1
Purple - LAMBSE2

The WB was warmed up before starting the car. I'm forcing OL at idle. The cam is an FTI that is close in specs to a trick flow 2. Idle = 800. I haven't changed any fuel tables, or modded my MAF xfer.

Once the car is warmed up, idle AFR (forced OL) starts out 14.7ish, but will rise to 15.3 - 15.8ish. I wonder if it is '8 stroking' and not burning every time. :shrug


Rick

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I no longer have (but what all my posts refer to):

94GT, 302NA, AFR165, FTI hyd cam, Performer, 24lb-hr @39PSI, 65TB, Pro-M 80 w/ NA 94-95 GT cal, long tubes, egr & smog delete, T-5

TwEECer RT v1.20b3, J4J1 base, PLX M-300 WB, EEC Analyzer