Does anybody know if the brake rotors (front and back) are the same for a 2003 V6 and a GT. I'm looking for replacement rotors and would like to use fancy cross-drilled or slotted rotors, but all I can find is for GT's and Cobra's. Also, the latest year I can find is 2002, are the 2002 and 2003 the same? Thanks for the help,

Brad

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A9L strategy, 9.8 to 1 306 with bowl ported Trick Flows, Stage I Trick Flow cam, Track Heat Intake, BBK shorty headers

If i were yo I'd stay away from cross drilled rotors, slots are ok but rapidly accelerate pad wear. drilled holes reduce the friction area and will cause cracks, I don't like cracked pieces of cast iron spinning anywhere near me! Unless you are using you brakes real hard, like road racing, and don't mind changing rotors on a regular basis don't get drilled.

I second the caution about cross drilled. It spite of being cool looking, the holes just promote cracking. The slotted rotors serve the same purpose as drilled but don't suffer from the cracking issue.

In reality, you would never benefit from either under anything but the most extreme usage such as open-track events. further interesting is that modern pad compounds don't emit the gasses as they used to, further elimenating the need to either cross-drills or slots.

But, that aside, if you want the look, PowerSlot offers rotors for your car. They are stock replacements and relatively inexpensive. You can get them in all combinations of slotted, drilled and even "dimpled" which should will quickly fill with pad material and offer the looks of drilled without the issues.

I found them available for your model at TireRack.com. In fact, I purchase two slotted PowerSlot rotors to complement my Baer Track Kit installed up front. In spite to knowing the reality, I just couldn't resist splurging for the slotted rotors. They have that racy look.

Daren

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94GT, AFR165, E303, 1.72 RR, GT-40 Intake, 70mm TB, 24lb inj, ProM 75, BBK LT, J4J1, PLX M-300 WB

Check local shops in your area also. I had my original rotors slotted at a local auto shop here in Austin.

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Saleen/Vortech Intake / AFR 165 Heads
Engle GHR 218/224 HYD Camshaft
1989 Saleen Coupe # 653 *****

Thanks for the replies. The rotors aren't for my fox mustang, but the misses 2003 V6. I was kind of leaning toward the slotted rotors anyway since I've heard all the horror stories with the cross-drilled rotors. I just wanted to find something that could stand up to some heat. The stock rotors on the car warped after just a small downhill braking experience. The problem is I can't find anything for the V6, unless all the rotors are the same as the GT. I'm just not as familiar with the later model pieces to be certain. Thanks,

Brad

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A9L strategy, 9.8 to 1 306 with bowl ported Trick Flows, Stage I Trick Flow cam, Track Heat Intake, BBK shorty headers

The search I did on TireRack.com was for a 2003 V6 Mustang.

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/results. ... &x=65&y=11



It isn't the slots or cross-drill that effects cooling. They are there for a much different reason. As stated above, the slots and cross-drills are to vent gasses emitted from the pads. It is really a non-issue. Cooling is accomplished through vented rotors. Note the "fins" that run around the perimeter of the rotor in this picture:


On your car, the fronts are vented from the factory, the rears are probably not .

The PowerSlot rotors I'm recommending are not any less prone to warpage then any OEM replacement. If you want to prevent warpage, you would have to splurge for a set of heavy-duty rotors offered by companies like Brembo or Baer. Additionally, the slots will probably make it so they can no longer be turned.

Another tip related to rotor warpage I learned during the open track events is uneven cooling is more a cause of rotor warpage then heating. This is one reason they have a cool-down lap and the instructor futher encouraged me to roll the car a few times in the pits. The theory being that when the rotors are hot, much of the rotor is exposed to open air while the other portion is covered by heated pads and caliper. This causes uneven cooling. I'm hardly a student of metallurgy so I took the tip at face value.

In all reality, the slots rotors are strictly cosmetic in your (and my) case and probably bring on more negatives then positives.

Cons:
-no performance gain
-increase pad usage
-no less prone to warpage
-probably can't be turned. If they warp, they have to be replaced.

Pros:
-Look cool

Hope this helps,

Daren

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94GT, AFR165, E303, 1.72 RR, GT-40 Intake, 70mm TB, 24lb inj, ProM 75, BBK LT, J4J1, PLX M-300 WB

Thanks for the help Daren on looking up the rotors. I'm now leaning toward just getting Brembo Replacement Rotors for about $48 each front, $39 each rear. They look to be good quality and the reviews have been good. The cross-drilled rotors do look a lot better, but just not as economical for a daily driven Mustang and the potential for breakage is not something I want to subject her car to (maybe my own j/k) Anyways, thanks for the info,

Brad

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A9L strategy, 9.8 to 1 306 with bowl ported Trick Flows, Stage I Trick Flow cam, Track Heat Intake, BBK shorty headers