I'm running an EEC-IV, originally a GUFB setup and more recently changed to a CBAZA (changed wiring and new tune accordingly). I'm running a 460 converted to mass air 4 years ago. The truck runs well, except every year or so (10-15k miles) the EEC quits. Parking lot swap to a fresh EEC, move the quarterhorse over, and I'm on the road again for another year. Everything runs great, then truck hickups a couple times while driving, and quits within a few miles.
Does anyone rebuilds EEC-IV's that can diagnose what's failing? If I can get an idea of how the EEC's dying it sure would help. I'm starting to think ebay will run out of EEC's at the rate I'm killing them. (or it feels that way, I had to change from the GUF to CBAZA setup a couple years back due to availability).
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cgrey8
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Re: EEC Eater
Cardone, the company that rebuilt Ford EECs for Advance/Autozone stopped rebuilding for the GUFx era back around 2012ish. It would make sense they'd do the same for CBAZA era at some point. Although I haven't heard anybody say they can't get them from AutoZone anymore.
The vast majority of the time, when these go bad, it's capacitors going bad which are easily identified just by looking for domed, bloated, or obviously leaking caps.
Replace the faulty cap and the EEC's back in working order. Anybody with a soldering iron can do that repair. And if you don't have a soldering iron, you can get decent ones for this kind of work on eBay for under $25 inc s/h. If in doubt about what will work as a decent BUDGET soldering station, just search eBay for a 936 soldering station.
In other cases, the EEC is going bad due to electrical damage which can fry traces on the board and whatever components were carrying that current. In those cases, there's more diagnostics to determine what went bad and what needs to be replaced.
The vast majority of the time, when these go bad, it's capacitors going bad which are easily identified just by looking for domed, bloated, or obviously leaking caps.
Replace the faulty cap and the EEC's back in working order. Anybody with a soldering iron can do that repair. And if you don't have a soldering iron, you can get decent ones for this kind of work on eBay for under $25 inc s/h. If in doubt about what will work as a decent BUDGET soldering station, just search eBay for a 936 soldering station.
In other cases, the EEC is going bad due to electrical damage which can fry traces on the board and whatever components were carrying that current. In those cases, there's more diagnostics to determine what went bad and what needs to be replaced.
...Always Somethin'
89 Ranger Supercab, 331 w/GT40p heads, ported Explorer lower, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', GUFB, Moates QuarterHorse tuned using BE&EA
Member V8-Ranger.com
89 Ranger Supercab, 331 w/GT40p heads, ported Explorer lower, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', GUFB, Moates QuarterHorse tuned using BE&EA
Member V8-Ranger.com
Re: EEC Eater
I'll open the most recent and look around. I've replaced caps on a GUFx before, don't remember seeing any obvious caps or traces on the first CBAZA that failed. I may not have been looking close enough though.
The Impossible-To-Hide Yellow Box Truck
'94 460 EFI->Mass Air, QH, CBAZA, 80mm slot MAF, E4OD with Quick1, Thorley Headers
'94 460 EFI->Mass Air, QH, CBAZA, 80mm slot MAF, E4OD with Quick1, Thorley Headers
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