[EDS50]

Are you using a wideband?
Are you able to check your base timing and fuel pressure?

Base timing needs to be set to 10 btdc.
Base fuel pressure can be set to 39 with the vac line off if using an adjustable fpr. If factory fox body type, no adjustment.

[EDS50]

Bap sensor? Ill have something for you to try shortly.

[67StangWy]

Are you using a wideband?
Are you able to check your base timing and fuel pressure?

Base timing needs to be set to 10 btdc.
Base fuel pressure can be set to 39 with the vac line off if using an adjustable fpr. If factory fox body type, no adjustment.

No wideband, and I can check base timing, will get the parts needed to check pressure from the local parts store.

Where would the BAP sensor be located?

[67StangWy]

FPR is a factory 2-1704A

[EDS50]

Give this a try. Should be a good starting point for what you have. I would disconnect the battery and clear the learned fuel trims before writing this tune to the hardware. I would recommend upgrading your maf meter. Let me know if you have any questions and how the car responds.

[EDS50]

Are you using a wideband?
Are you able to check your base timing and fuel pressure?

Base timing needs to be set to 10 btdc.
Base fuel pressure can be set to 39 with the vac line off if using an adjustable fpr. If factory fox body type, no adjustment.

No wideband, and I can check base timing, will get the parts needed to check pressure from the local parts store.

Where would the BAP sensor be located?

The bap sensor is located on the the firewall to the left of the windshield wiper motor and vacuum tree on a fox body mustang. If you dont have one, that will need to be disabled in the tune also.

Links for reference:
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-12644A/Mustang ... gKeGPD_BwE

https://www.cjponyparts.com/tech-fox-body-engine/a/170/

[67StangWy]

I would guess there is not one installed then

[EDS50]

I would guess there is not one installed then

Same tune with BAP disabled

Tune5TEST.BIN

(56 KiB) Downloaded 402 times

[67StangWy]

Give this a try. Should be a good starting point for what you have. I would disconnect the battery and clear the learned fuel trims before writing this tune to the hardware. I would recommend upgrading your maf meter. Let me know if you have any questions and how the car responds.

What MAF would you recoomend?

[67StangWy]

I am correct in thinking I should open this calibration in BE, and then Write it? Or is there anything additional I need to to do load this new tune?

[EDS50]

I am correct in thinking I should open this calibration in BE, and then Write it? Or is there anything additional I need to to do load this new tune?

Make sure to disconnect the battery to clear the learned fuel trims. In BE make sure you have GUFB as your strategy, and open tune5 as your calibration,turn key on and write to the hardware once BE is connected, turn key off once writing is completed (100%) start car and enjoy.

I would recommend the Pro-M 75 Bullet unflanged or Pro-M 80 calibrated for 42# injectors.

[EDS50]

Here is the injector calibration sheet for your injectors to add to your files.

m-9593-f302 42#.pdf

(13.48 KiB) Downloaded 410 times

[EDS50]

Once you get comfortable, the next step would be to set up your datalog screen and dashboard display in BE so you can datalog and start tuning accordingly.

[67StangWy]

I am correct in thinking I should open this calibration in BE, and then Write it? Or is there anything additional I need to to do load this new tune?

Make sure to disconnect the battery to clear the learned fuel trims. In BE make sure you have GUFB as your strategy, and open tune5 as your calibration,turn key on and write to the hardware once BE is connected, turn key off once writing is completed (100%) start car and enjoy.

I would recommend the Pro-M 75 Bullet unflanged or Pro-M 80 calibrated for 42# injectors.

How long should it take to write? It literally blinks...and doesn't say anything. When I read the file again it pulled my old tune when I compared.

Let me start from scratch again and I will let you know.

[67StangWy]

Followed directions, when I hit write, the screen blinks and that is it. Should there be anything else?

[EDS50]

How are you connected to the QH? USB, Bluetooth? Make sure key is on engine is off, and hit the connect button if it doesn't connect automatically. Are all of your drivers up to date on the laptop?

Try to close BE and reopen. Make sure your strategy (GUFB) is loaded and your calibration (tune5) is loaded, turn ignition key on, connect to the QH, once the Read, Write and Update button light up, click write and you should see the progress on the bottom left of your screen.

How old is your QH?

[67StangWy]

USB Connection, QH was probably bought 4 years ago.

Everything lights up when I connect to the QH, Read and Write, although I was connected when opened BE. Let me try connecting after that fact and see if anything changes.

[EDS50]

USB Connection, QH was probably bought 4 years ago.

Everything lights up when I connect to the QH, Read and Write, although I was connected when opened BE. Let me try connecting after that fact and see if anything changes.

I would change the battery back up on the QH.

[67StangWy]

Don’t think that was supposed to be changed......
Ordering another QH now unfortunately, or is there something else I should order instead that has a battery that can be changed.

[67StangWy]

I will see if they make the battery piece I can solder in, otherwise I’ll need a new unit.

[67StangWy]

Yea think I have the battery soldered to the board again to connect, but still can’t write a file to it, and of course have lost ability to move the car now haha. Fml
Do you think that is the battery issue?

[EDS50]

You can check the battery with a voltmeter, If its under 2.0 volts consider it dead but you should have no issue connecting to the QH with the usb cable. None of what you are experiencing should be tune related. Go into the hardware tab of BE and make sure QH is selected/enabled...

Also click on the QH configuration tab and make sure basic mode is selected, clear the ram and try to write the tune again.

[67StangWy]

It was in advanced mode, let me try basic and go from there.

It is above 2Volts, but I went ahead and ordered the replacement for peace of mind.

QH is enabled, does the 152000 number matter?


Will Try Basic after clearing ram and let you know shortly.

[67StangWy]

She runs again haha, looks like it was the advanced mode that would not allow it to write.

I will drive it tonight and update tomorrow on how she is doing.

[EDS50]

Awesome, any issues with cranking or idle? You can send the QH in to Craig or Dave at Moates and they will update the firmware and update the battery to a replaceable unit and modify the memory circuit for the battery free of charge if you contact them and open a repair order/request. They are very easy to deal with.

[67StangWy]

Started fine, idle is ok little lower. Runs like garbage haha, lots of white smoke....Cough and sputter

[EDS50]

Turn the idle up to 800 via the TB set screw and check tps. White smoke? How confident are you with your engine builder?

[67StangWy]

100% engine builder haha, I have built quite a few just not an efi build,it was almost like the spark plugs were in the wrong spot, running rough. Car ran strong below 50% throttle on old tune, motor should be solid.

I will tune it up a hair on set screw, and should be able to see tps on the BE is that what you mean, make sure it is correlating correctly?

[EDS50]

Yes on the tps (key on engine off). Tps should be around 0.95v after proper idle setting is achieved. Make sure the dizzy is not a tooth off and you are running the correct firing order.

[67StangWy]

Should be good but I’ll double check, like I said idle good and ran fine until was into throttle, then coughed and choked. But I’ll double check plugs tomorrow, have seen weirder things.