[DuvallLockAndKey]

Hey guys, looking for some help to get me going in the right direction. I recently built a 351w efi bored .060 over, stock crank, 10.8 compression, promaxx aluminum heads, compcams cam, Edelbrock performer rpm lower and upper intake, bbk 76mm throttle body, mass air conversion from speed density, electric fan and water pump, 30lb accel fuel injectors, longtube headers and I'm tuning with BE, EA and an innovate lc2 wideband. I'm using the RAN2 strategy. The E4OD I built with a tugger shift kit. All this is in an 89 e350. The van runs and idles good, so far I've tuned injector slopes and mass air transfer. While driving under heavy load it seems to hesitate to shift. While driving with less load it seems to shift ok. When I tuned the mass air transfer it didn't move far from the stock curve which makes me think I'm doing something wrong. I'm a newbie and I'm not sure exactly where I should start I've been stuck with this issue for a while now. The engine also runs hot. It goes up to 230 degrees while driving slow mostly uphill and high revving in idle working on the tune. I'm thinking that it could be the cold air intake i made is too far back in the engine bay and it's not getting cool enough air. The engine bay is tiny in the e350 it gets really hot. Those are the only issues I'm having otherwise there is no mechanical or electrical issues. I could post a datalog if anyone is interested in taking a look, I've been looking through the forum and there's not much info on e4od tuning.

[skunk]

Hopefully someone chimes in on tuning the shift control...I don't know much about your strategy but the hesitation could possibly be caused by your issue.

As for the heat issues....I don't think the intake in the engine bay will cause that kind of heating. Its possible your cooling system isnt up to the task and the fan just doesn't move enough air. If your fueling is good try backing off the timing a little bit in the appropriate load cells.

John

[DuvallLockAndKey]

Thanks for the reply, my cooling fan is 16 in and 3000 CFM I thought that would be sufficient, but that's a good point I'm probably going to switch to dual fans and see if that helps.

[ChsReb]

Some COOLING notes from my 408 install:
1.) You didn't say what you're running for a radiator, but if is like the "Plastic Fantastic" in my 1995 Mustang, you definitely need an upgrade. I'm running a new all aluminum DeWitts radiator that is an inch thicker than stock. It does fine in Charlestons 90+ Summers. These are not cheap. $450-$600 depending on size and options.
2.) Check your KAMs at idle and cruise. If things are in the lean category, that will definitely heat you up. Have you dialed in ITHBMA? if not that can make things lean during idle an cruise.
3.) If your intake manifold supports it, tie the rear cooling crossover passages together and tap it for heater return. The rear of the heads tend to collect deposits in this area. Running the heater in winter keeps this area clean of deposits and eliminates any future hot spots and build-up of deposits.
4.) If you haven't already, install a 180 thermostat. If yours is old, make sure it is opening at 180.
5.) Completely flush the system and install new antifreeze and DISTILLED water in a 50-50 mix.
6.) if you see any brown coolant, have the block and radiator completely flushed by a radiator shop.
7.) test your Temperature Sensor. Make sure it is accurate. Check all sensor wiring to make sure the connections are solid and free of Corrosion.

[DuvallLockAndKey]

That was some great info, im defintely tapping into the rear crossover on the next build. im running the stock radiator but i installed dual fans and a new shroud and it fixed the problem. But now since cooling and my MAF seems to be pretty dialed in i started doing some closed loop tuning. My lambses are always commanding lean. I cant figure out why, i have the afr at 14.08, nothing in my commanded fuel table goes over 1. It only goes lean in closed loop. In open loop it idles and drives great. I cant see my HEGO voltage on BE, im using a AHACA RAN2 strategy from coretuning.net. Initially when i got the strategy the trucks bank2 pw would never go under 100%. After speaking with coretuning they fixed the strategy and now it commands the right fuel, however my HEGO voltage cant be displayed. I watch the STFTs to see what hegos are commanding. I spoke with coretuning again but they cannot get the strategy to read the voltages. I ordered new o2 sensors, thinking maybe i ruined them when the car was dumping fuel. Theyre getting delivered in 2 days and I will replace them then. But I cant think of another parameter in the tune that would cause a lean lambse besides MAF curve (which is dialed in) base fuel table (which doesnt command anything over 1 ever) or bad o2 sensor reading. Im sure my wiring is good, it was an 89 e350 sd i swapped to mass air. I wired the o2s in myself and made sure the ground, signal return, heater and signal wires were all wired properly. If anyone has any input on this issue that would be appreciated.

[ChsReb]

Have you dialed in ITHBMA? If not go to efidynotuning.com and read the “Idle Air” section.

This is a royal pain. As you raise the ITHBMA scaler you have to raise your idle air setting. I went .1 lb/min and + 5% each time in idle air. Failure to increase idle air makes for a car that probably won’t start and definitely won’t idle. I readjusted the MAF curve after every interaction and reran the ITHBMA calculation until my setting came back above the calculation.

Make sure your PCV Valve is working and there are no other air leaks in the intake hoses. I’d change all the vacuum hoses just to be sure if you haven’t in the last 10-15 years.

After I completed this, the MAF curve was a breeze.

[DuvallLockAndKey]

That is some great advice I did not touch that yet. All I did for idle was set the throttle body stop screw at the correct rpm. I will do that asap and let you know how it goes.

[LeadHead]

What are you using for a MAF? If you're using the original MAF that is matched to the computer you got if from, the MAF transfer should NOT change much if at all.

I'm not sure what the difference between the AHACB and AHACA strategies are, but if they're on the same hardware, you should just be able to run the AHACB software, which is very well supported and broken out by SailorBob