[How to] Install your LC-1 in a Fox Body

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snowboarda42
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[How to] Install your LC-1 in a Fox Body

Post by snowboarda42 » Tue Aug 16, 2011 11:31 am

Since I never saw any type of write-up on the specifics of installing a LC-1 and quarterhorse in a fox body, I figured I'd take the time and document how I did mine. This was in a 1989 Mustang LX 5.0 Manual with an A9L.

1. Open the boxes up from Moates/Innovate and make sure you have everything you'll need.
Image
  • A. Quarterhorse - Comes with:
    1. USB Bulkhead Connector
    Image

    2. Physical Chip (the quarterhorse)
    Image

    3. USB cable
    4. Stickars! and a Pen, even a sweet free shirt like I got :)

    B. Innovate LC-1 with DB Gauge
    Image
    1. Wideband Controller
    Image

    2. Bosch O2 Sensor
    Image

    3. Gauge and cable(if you ordered it with the kit)
    Image

    4. Logworks Disc
    5. Terminator Plug
    Image

    6. Serial Cable to 2.5mm plug
    Image

    7. O2 bung (weld in)
    Image

    8. Momentary Toggle Button and LED
    Image

    9. Moar stickars!
    Image
Now get some tools together boys and girls, you'll be needing at least the following:
  • 1. Soldering Iron (get one, don't use only those dumb connectors)
    2. Electronic Solder
    3. Flux Paste - Makes soldering a LOT easier
    4. One or two lug connectors big enough for the ground the EEC uses
    5. 10mm socket and ratchet
    6. O2 Sensor Socket or 7/8" open ended wrench
    7. Electrical Tape and/or heat shrink
    8. Zip ties, some small and some med-large
    9. Wire Strippers
    10. A test light/multimeter
1. LC-1 Install
  • 1. Where you choose to route the O2 sensor through is up to you, personally I didn't want a 1" hole somewhere in my car's floorboard, and I didn't want to leave the Wideband controller outside the cab since I wasn't sure if it was waterproof or not and living in rainy Seattle it's bound to get wet. I'm sure some will cringe at how I chose to to it so if you aren't comfortable cutting and soldering your new 02 sensor ($70) then find another routing method. I decided that the grommet/seal where the heaterbox drain goes through the firewall would be the best, so I used a screwdriver about the size of the O2 sensor's cable to make a little hole.

    2. Next, I cut :surprised: the heat shield surrounding the O2 sensor wires down the middle (hot-dog style) about 4" to gain access. ImageImage

    3.Then I cut and stripped the wires about the same length away from the connector.

    4. Route the wires from the actual sensor through the hole you've created in your firewall into the car from the engine compartment. Image

    5. Resolder the wires with the appropriate colors using your solder paste and iron. I shrink wrap and put zip ties on the outside to make sure it's sealed well. Make sure you shrink wrap each wire individually so they don't touch!

    6. Next up is connecting the LC-1 to the EGR input. From Innovate, the default for the outputs is 0-5v for one, and 0-1 for the other. Since I had the gauge that requires 0-5v, as well as the EGR input, I decided to change it. This is where the serial cable comes into play. It's really straightforward, and you just change the 0-1v output to the same values as the 0-5v one. Once that's done, you'll be able to hook either one up to the EGR input. The steps are outlined well in EDS50's writeup on How to connect a Innovate LC-1 to the EGR input You'll want to cut and solder the wire to the #27 pin's wire. I gave myself enough slack from the connector to be able to easily solder it. The actual wire you want to solder it to is seen here being held by the screwdriver:
    Image

    7. For the power, I chose to use this red wire from the little green connector near the EEC, no idea what it's for but it has a switched power and was close. It's worked great so far :P
    Image

    8. You'll need a ground as well, make sure it's the SAME as the EEC's ground because otherwise you will get noise/interference per the instructions that come with the LC-1. I highly recommend you solder this as well. The LC-1 says to hook the black, white, and blue wires to ground.
    Image

    9. Put it on the same ground as the EEC uses
    Image

    10. I chose to mount my gauge in the glovebox since the thing is bright and doesn't match my other gauges. It's up to you where you put it though. I also took the opportunity to mount the USB for the Quarterhorse and the switch for zeroing the Sensor. Where you put it again is up to you. Follow the wiring instructions for the momentary button that come with the LC-1.
    Image
    Image

    11. You'll need to have the bung welded in to your exhaust, or do it yourself. I would put it as close to the collector as you can, or at least near to where the stock ones are.

    12. Make sure you calibrate the sensor before you install it into the bung, via the instructions in the kit!!!!

    13. Once that's done, you should be able to turn the key on and the gauge should light up (assuming you have the gauge)!
2. Quarterhorse Install:
  • 1. Disconnect your battery! Remove your ECU (Computer) from your car. On the mustang, this is behind a side/kickpanel where your passenger's right foot would be in the car. It's held in with body/trim clips, maybe one screw as well. Behind that panel there's another peice of plastic with a bit of sound deadening material. Remove that as well. The actual ECU is held in by a white plastic hold-down that is secured with a small green bolt that screws into part of the body. You'll need to remove the plug with a 10mm socket for the bold that holds it in, and a bit of brute force to pull the plug out sometimes.

    2. Crack it open, and install it with the step-by-step written by CGrey8 Installation of the Quarterhorse on an 89-93 Mustang EEC

    3. After installing the chip, putting the computer back in is reverse of how you took it out. Replace your kickpanels and trim.

    4. Reconnect your battery

    5. You'll need to load a tune of some sort up before the car will actually run, I suggest you use whatever tune the EEC came with. In my case it was A9L.

    6. Start the car, and enjoy! Read read read on how to begin tuning!
Image
  • 1989 Ford Mustang LX 5.0L
    Auto to Manual Conversion
    A9L GUFB, Trick Flow TFS Heads, TFS Stage 2 Cam, Cobra Intake, PMAS MAF 24#, FMS 24# EV1 Injectors, 255LPH Pump, Cold Air Intake, 180* TStat, Equal Length Headers, 2.5" Exhaust No Cats, Blah blah blah
    Quarterhorse 1.6, Binary Editor 2010, EECAnalyzer

decipha

Re: [How to] Install your LC-1 in a Fox Body

Post by decipha » Tue Aug 16, 2011 1:44 pm

did you put a spacer on the wideband? if not you may want to

fresh air cal's are ancient history now, most new wideband controllers accept a calibrated sensor, just plug it in and go

also be sure you disconnect the egr connector from the egr valve if you still have it

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Re: [How to] Install your LC-1 in a Fox Body

Post by cgrey8 » Tue Aug 16, 2011 3:59 pm

Innovate's shipping their WBs with the 1" bungs. So no more need for the spacers. He's got a pic of the bung above.
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crakrz
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Re: [How to] Install your LC-1 in a Fox Body

Post by crakrz » Tue Aug 16, 2011 6:18 pm

Great write up, and with good pics too.

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Re: [How to] Install your LC-1 in a Fox Body

Post by EDS50 » Wed Sep 07, 2011 8:13 pm

And once the install is complete you should give this a read....viewtopic.php?f=5&t=14947
1992 LX - 25.1c Chassis, Vortech Blown Dart 332, Lentech Trans, TRZ Backhalf, A9L, Moates QH/SL v1.9, BE, EA, TunerView

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Duke
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Re: [How to] Install your LC-1 in a Fox Body

Post by Duke » Thu Jul 19, 2012 9:36 am

Thanks for the great write-up. I am just getting ready to do this exact same setup.
88 Mustang GT, 302, Hellion Turbo kit, 62mm Turbonetics, ProComp heads, TF street heat intake, Crane 2030 cam, 1.6 RR, 70mmTB, Deatchwerks 78lb. inj, GS-340/255 lph pump, Blow through Slot MAF in 3" housing, equal length shortys, Tremec 3550, 3.55, A9L, Moates QH v1.6, BE, EA, Innovate LC-1

decipha

Re: [How to] Install your LC-1 in a Fox Body

Post by decipha » Thu Jul 19, 2012 12:00 pm

you may want to note pre-calibrated sensors rely on their exact resistance for calibration thus if you have a non-calibratable wb cutting the wires will.destroy it

mJacobsenst
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How to Install your LC 1 in a Fox Body

Post by mJacobsenst » Mon Mar 16, 2015 4:43 am

Nice write-up How much boost you running and whats your numbers look like?

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Pat Olsen
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Re: [How to] Install your LC-1 in a Fox Body

Post by Pat Olsen » Sat Sep 05, 2015 3:23 pm

Thread revival! If my questions are addressed elsewhere, feel free to point me in the right direction, but this seemed like a good thread to bump as I was searching through the forum.

I'm planning to install 2 LC1s in place of the factory-style NB O2s. I was thinking I could use the factory O2 harness to provide power and ground to the LC1s and to get the emulated NB signal from the LC1s to the EEC-IV. I have a couple of O2 sensor harness extenders that I no longer need, so I was planning to scavenge the connectors from those to make harnesses to plug the LC-1s into the factory harness. (The extenders were in use with the stock type O2 sensors since I've got long tubes, but the LC-1s are a different connector and give me plenty of wiring to work with, anyway, so the extensions are superfluous now.)

My apologies for the lack of color and the crappiness of this diagram, but I put my Paint skills to work real quick:
Image

Logically, what I have labelled as terminal C on each of the O2 connectors must be the signals from the two sensors, as the other 2 terminals join together in the harness (A to A and B to B). So, terminal C is where I would hook up "Analog Out 1" from the LC1s. Terminal 3 at the strut tower harness is grounded to the HEGO ground at the back of the intake manifold, so terminal A is the ground, and that leaves terminal B as the power. That all jives with tmoss's great diagram, I just wanted to confirm things myself because some of the wiring colors on his diagram don't match my car.

- Can I use terminal B (which comes from terminal 1, the grey/yellow wire, at the strut tower) to power the LC1s?
- Can I use terminal A (which comes from terminal 3, the black/green wire, at the strut tower) to ground the LC1s? And can I ground all 3 LC1 grounds (heater ground, system ground, analog ground) there? I have one install document from Innovate that says white & blue go together, but green should be ground separately, and a "quick start guide" from Innovate that says white & green should go together, with blue grounded separately, so I'm not really sure which is correct. :confused: And I've always thought ground anywhere on the car should be ground, so I don't particularly understand how grounding them at different locations would accomplish anything, anyway!
'89 Mustang GT convertible open track beast (supposedly) - N/A 357W, TEA'd TFS heads, Ed Curtis cam, BBK long tubes, 80mm Pro-M, Tweecer RT w/A9L strategy, etc...

jsa
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Re: [How to] Install your LC-1 in a Fox Body

Post by jsa » Sat Sep 05, 2015 4:00 pm

Run the analog ground with the analog signal and ground local to the analog signal termination.
Cheers

John

95 Escort RS Cosworth - GHAJ0 / ANTI on a COSY box code
Moates QH & BE
ForDiag

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Pat Olsen
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Re: [How to] Install your LC-1 in a Fox Body

Post by Pat Olsen » Sat Sep 05, 2015 4:03 pm

jsa wrote:Run the analog ground with the analog signal and ground local to the analog signal termination.
The analog signal will be routed through the factory wiring harness back to the ECU, so you're saying route the analog ground back to where the ECU grounds?
'89 Mustang GT convertible open track beast (supposedly) - N/A 357W, TEA'd TFS heads, Ed Curtis cam, BBK long tubes, 80mm Pro-M, Tweecer RT w/A9L strategy, etc...

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Re: [How to] Install your LC-1 in a Fox Body

Post by jsa » Sat Sep 05, 2015 4:29 pm

Yes.

Next best would be to pick up the Ford sensors ground wiring.
Cheers

John

95 Escort RS Cosworth - GHAJ0 / ANTI on a COSY box code
Moates QH & BE
ForDiag

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