1. Open the boxes up from Moates/Innovate and make sure you have everything you'll need.
- A. Quarterhorse - Comes with:
1. USB Bulkhead Connector
2. Physical Chip (the quarterhorse)
3. USB cable
4. Stickars! and a Pen, even a sweet free shirt like I got :)
B. Innovate LC-1 with DB Gauge
1. Wideband Controller
2. Bosch O2 Sensor
3. Gauge and cable(if you ordered it with the kit)
4. Logworks Disc
5. Terminator Plug
6. Serial Cable to 2.5mm plug
7. O2 bung (weld in)
8. Momentary Toggle Button and LED
9. Moar stickars!
- 1. Soldering Iron (get one, don't use only those dumb connectors)
2. Electronic Solder
3. Flux Paste - Makes soldering a LOT easier
4. One or two lug connectors big enough for the ground the EEC uses
5. 10mm socket and ratchet
6. O2 Sensor Socket or 7/8" open ended wrench
7. Electrical Tape and/or heat shrink
8. Zip ties, some small and some med-large
9. Wire Strippers
10. A test light/multimeter
- 1. Where you choose to route the O2 sensor through is up to you, personally I didn't want a 1" hole somewhere in my car's floorboard, and I didn't want to leave the Wideband controller outside the cab since I wasn't sure if it was waterproof or not and living in rainy Seattle it's bound to get wet. I'm sure some will cringe at how I chose to to it so if you aren't comfortable cutting and soldering your new 02 sensor ($70) then find another routing method. I decided that the grommet/seal where the heaterbox drain goes through the firewall would be the best, so I used a screwdriver about the size of the O2 sensor's cable to make a little hole.
2. Next, I cut the heat shield surrounding the O2 sensor wires down the middle (hot-dog style) about 4" to gain access.
3.Then I cut and stripped the wires about the same length away from the connector.
4. Route the wires from the actual sensor through the hole you've created in your firewall into the car from the engine compartment.
5. Resolder the wires with the appropriate colors using your solder paste and iron. I shrink wrap and put zip ties on the outside to make sure it's sealed well. Make sure you shrink wrap each wire individually so they don't touch!
6. Next up is connecting the LC-1 to the EGR input. From Innovate, the default for the outputs is 0-5v for one, and 0-1 for the other. Since I had the gauge that requires 0-5v, as well as the EGR input, I decided to change it. This is where the serial cable comes into play. It's really straightforward, and you just change the 0-1v output to the same values as the 0-5v one. Once that's done, you'll be able to hook either one up to the EGR input. The steps are outlined well in EDS50's writeup on How to connect a Innovate LC-1 to the EGR input You'll want to cut and solder the wire to the #27 pin's wire. I gave myself enough slack from the connector to be able to easily solder it. The actual wire you want to solder it to is seen here being held by the screwdriver:
7. For the power, I chose to use this red wire from the little green connector near the EEC, no idea what it's for but it has a switched power and was close. It's worked great so far
8. You'll need a ground as well, make sure it's the SAME as the EEC's ground because otherwise you will get noise/interference per the instructions that come with the LC-1. I highly recommend you solder this as well. The LC-1 says to hook the black, white, and blue wires to ground.
9. Put it on the same ground as the EEC uses
10. I chose to mount my gauge in the glovebox since the thing is bright and doesn't match my other gauges. It's up to you where you put it though. I also took the opportunity to mount the USB for the Quarterhorse and the switch for zeroing the Sensor. Where you put it again is up to you. Follow the wiring instructions for the momentary button that come with the LC-1.
11. You'll need to have the bung welded in to your exhaust, or do it yourself. I would put it as close to the collector as you can, or at least near to where the stock ones are.
12. Make sure you calibrate the sensor before you install it into the bung, via the instructions in the kit!!!!
13. Once that's done, you should be able to turn the key on and the gauge should light up (assuming you have the gauge)!
- 1. Disconnect your battery! Remove your ECU (Computer) from your car. On the mustang, this is behind a side/kickpanel where your passenger's right foot would be in the car. It's held in with body/trim clips, maybe one screw as well. Behind that panel there's another peice of plastic with a bit of sound deadening material. Remove that as well. The actual ECU is held in by a white plastic hold-down that is secured with a small green bolt that screws into part of the body. You'll need to remove the plug with a 10mm socket for the bold that holds it in, and a bit of brute force to pull the plug out sometimes.
2. Crack it open, and install it with the step-by-step written by CGrey8 Installation of the Quarterhorse on an 89-93 Mustang EEC
3. After installing the chip, putting the computer back in is reverse of how you took it out. Replace your kickpanels and trim.
4. Reconnect your battery
5. You'll need to load a tune of some sort up before the car will actually run, I suggest you use whatever tune the EEC came with. In my case it was A9L.
6. Start the car, and enjoy! Read read read on how to begin tuning!