WAY1 - Where Should the O2 Sensor Go?

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neonbeef
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WAY1 - Where Should the O2 Sensor Go?

Post by neonbeef » Sat Jun 29, 2019 5:02 pm

Hello All:

Just a quick hardware question; with the WAY1 calibration, where should the O2 sensor (HEGO) be placed?

I know that most would recommend it go on the driver side long tube header. However, I am wondering if it could go down as far as the "H" pipe so that I would get readings from both engine banks.

So, in addition to the build information below, I am using long tube Hooker Headers. By the way, the next time I will try the Hedman headers, I had to pound the heck out the Hookers to get the passenger side to fit.
Be well, and have a great day!
Wayne

1992 Ford F150 Std Cab/Flareside/4X4/Toughened E4OD

393 Stroker/Eddie 5.8 EFI Intake and Heads/Fiveology Racing 76mm MAF & WAY1/Comp Cams XE 274/Eagle Rotating Assembly Kit/Green Giant Injectors/MSD Plugs, Wires, Distributor, 6AL Spark Box/9.9:1 compression

AHACB Strategy/Moates QH/BE - Core Tuning

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cgrey8
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Re: WAY1 - Where Should the O2 Sensor Go?

Post by cgrey8 » Sat Jun 29, 2019 7:02 pm

If you already have long tubes, then as close to a collector as possible is best. I don't know whether DS or PS makes more sense. On my engine, Bank1 is consistently richer. But I don't think that is universal. The stock Explorer 302 I had originally in the truck had banks pretty perfectly matched.

That said, my suggestion is put it where it's most convenient to get it in as close to a collector as possible...including in a collector if possible.
...Always Somethin'

89 Ranger Supercab, 331 w/GT40p heads, ported Explorer lower, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, 1.6RRs, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, Slot Style MAF, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', 8.8" rear w/3.27s, Powertrax Locker, Innovate LC-1, GUFB, Moates QuarterHorse tuned using BE&EA

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neonbeef
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Re: WAY1 - Where Should the O2 Sensor Go?

Post by neonbeef » Tue Jul 02, 2019 7:06 am

Hello Cgrey8:

I just picked up a beautiful '92 Flareside Nite edition (guy has had it for 17 years and had it professionally repainted and lifted 4 inches, but never got to putting in the reman engine, so off the road for those years) and noticed the original O2 sensor was in a crossover right after the exhaust manifolds.

It's a 5.0, though, with a speed density EEC.

So, as soon as we are done cleaning the garage on Wednesday, we are going to check: 1. The main and rod bearings, 2. Oil pressure, 3. Compression (hooking up extra bell housing and starter), and 4. Look over the gaskets and seals for leaks. If those check out, just going to throw the engine in and cross my fingers.

Is there anything else I could check while it's out; I can't think of anything.
Be well, and have a great day!
Wayne

1992 Ford F150 Std Cab/Flareside/4X4/Toughened E4OD

393 Stroker/Eddie 5.8 EFI Intake and Heads/Fiveology Racing 76mm MAF & WAY1/Comp Cams XE 274/Eagle Rotating Assembly Kit/Green Giant Injectors/MSD Plugs, Wires, Distributor, 6AL Spark Box/9.9:1 compression

AHACB Strategy/Moates QH/BE - Core Tuning

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cgrey8
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Re: WAY1 - Where Should the O2 Sensor Go?

Post by cgrey8 » Tue Jul 02, 2019 7:42 am

neonbeef wrote:
Tue Jul 02, 2019 7:06 am
...the original O2 sensor was in a crossover right after the exhaust manifolds...
That's typical of single bank applications to allow the sensor to see the exhaust of all cylinders. But to make that work, you generally don't want to run long-tubes. They use standard low-volume, short runner, exhaust manifolds and locate the crossover as close to the engine as possible to minimize the distance gasses have to travel before hitting the HEGO. But with headers, even shorties, the volume between the ports and a crossover increases, which correlates to longer delays from when the exhaust burned to when it hits the HEGO. Longer delay is also time it has to cool which can throw the accuracy of a weakly headed HEGO.

The one thing I do have to say though is my experience with HEGOs is if the heater is working, they should be able to sense exhaust pretty well regardless of the exhaust temp. I've turned my ignition ON and left it ON before cranking for 30 seconds to a minute. And with pre-warmed HEGOs, I get HEGO response almost immediately upon crank. But there are plenty of people out there that claim that just doesn't work with long-tubes. I've always found that difficult to believe, but I can't deny the number of people that report the same thing. So I have to believe there's something to it.

neonbeef wrote:
Tue Jul 02, 2019 7:06 am
...Is there anything else I could check while it's out; I can't think of anything.
I don't know of anything either.
...Always Somethin'

89 Ranger Supercab, 331 w/GT40p heads, ported Explorer lower, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, 1.6RRs, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, Slot Style MAF, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', 8.8" rear w/3.27s, Powertrax Locker, Innovate LC-1, GUFB, Moates QuarterHorse tuned using BE&EA

Member V8-Ranger.com

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