[incon_331_twinturbos]

This is my first "datalog" of a start up tune. I know realize I forgot to log some parameters that would really help in dialing in the AFR, which is CRAZY lean at idle.....like 16-19:1

It will start when it's cold, but once it heats up you have to floorboard it to cut injectors. We had SEVERAL minor issues, fan wouldn't cut on, got too warm, so I shut it off, well, in my haste to get motor going I never set base timing (having already loosened the dist. hold down... :duh: ) well the timing was so far out it wouldn't start back up, got that fixed. (10*base, FP=39lbs with hose off)

Then there were two loose cable ends coming from battery to the starter solenoid (one on each end), a burnt up fusible link for the ALT. and some other little nick/nack stuff.

SOOO, I need to figure out what the dealio is for the AFR being so whack.

I also have another Log that is like 2.4MB which I think is too large to post on here....any insight to these logs would be VERY much appreciated. I'm really interested in learning the in's and out's of these things, it just facinates me that we have this much "power" behind our keyboards....

[incon_331_twinturbos]

if anyone could take a look at this I would appreciate it....I am going to try and get a decent log with all the NECESSARY parameters tomorrow, I spent all day today cleaning out my garage...

Thanks.
Brad

[decipha]

something ain't right, your hegos clipped their limits

force open loop for the time being, your fueling looks in the ballpark

how old are the o2s? any chance there swapped sides? are they getting 12v heater power? grounded good? hego ground intact?

[incon_331_twinturbos]

something ain't right, your hegos clipped their limits

force open loop for the time being, your fueling looks in the ballpark

will do

how old are the o2s? any chance there swapped sides? are they getting 12v heater power? grounded good? hego ground intact?

O2's are newish...almost no miles on them, however they were run w/o a tune on it (back before I got the quarterhorse, and it had a SCT chip on it with a close tune on it, so it may have buggered them up.

The O2's are right beside each other in the down pipe (located right by the pass. side firewall at the back of the pass side valve cover, with a brand new LC-1 in the other bung which is "in front" of them but between them. How would I go about checking that they were getting heater power? I remember seeing a wiring diagram/pinout for the O2s somewhere not too long ago....I will check out the grounds tomorrow and get back.

I'm also going to try and do another log with the "right" parameters logged so I can see if the MAF numbers I've got are in the ball park. ACT, ECT, MAF, MAFV, LAMBSE1&2, KAMRF 1&2, HEGO1&2, PW 1&2, AFR, MPH, Spark, VBAT,TP

Anything else I need to log, or do I have something above that does NOT need to be logged?

Probably a stupid question but where in EA do I run the logs through there?

[decipha]

with a qh you log everything, the more info the better, the only folks that can't log everything is tweecer users as thats older sub-par inferior equipment :coffeespray: seriously though, log everything


disable one hego and try a go at closed loop again

[incon_331_twinturbos]

:thumbup: Thanks, I've still got a couple hours clean up in my shop....then some tidying up outside around the car. This shop has/had gotten COMPLETELY out of control!!! :headbang: I have about 10 hours into it already...and probably 2-3 more hours.

Thanks for the tips. I'll let you know what the datalog looks like once I get back to the car.


Brad

[incon_331_twinturbos]

Well I got to thinking about this and was wondering about the computer(A9P), I had some problems with it not wanting to start before, so I took the cover off it again and took a look at it...it didn't smell burnt up, but was kind of burnt looking, at any rate, I'm going to try a C3W I had laying around. They are the same strategy correct?

[incon_331_twinturbos]

:headbang: :dunno: well here is a log with forced open loop and adaptive disabled...ran kinda rough and it looks like one of my O2's might be bad (shrug) cause it looks like they're fighting each other...

[NotchAbove]

Something is not right, the car does go into closed loop, and there is a huge difference between lambse 1 and 2.

[incon_331_twinturbos]

ya, that's what I was thinking too, I just glanced at it right quick before I had to get my son from school...well, that and I'm not exactly sure what I'm doing with this whole thing.... :duh: :duh:

[incon_331_twinturbos]

Something is not right, the car does go into closed loop, and there is a huge difference between lambse 1 and 2.

ya...I looked back at the tune and I "thought" that I had changed the Forced OL but apparently it didn't change (or I didn't save it... :dunno: ) Maybe I can try again tomorrow and see if that makes any difference. Should I clear the KAMRF?

[decipha]

yeah clear the kams and don't forget to

disable one hego and try a go at closed loop again

[incon_331_twinturbos]

:bananadance: ty sir

[decipha]

welcome

now its time for me to shower and retire for the night, my work is done :think:

good luck with her

[incon_331_twinturbos]

yeah clear the kams and don't forget to

disable one hego and try a go at closed loop again

going to try and disable the hego, and do the things in this thread ---> viewtopic.php?f=2&t=17125&p=89877&hilit ... KAM#p89877 as far as the injector output etc.


I also got 2 new O2's but may hold off on them until I see how this "tweak" works, and then go from there, but I feel like it's a step in the right direction. It's raining out now, otherwise I'd be out checking it out.

Up to know I've just been trying to get the idle in good shape (I still have an issue with my trans not wanting to go into reverse,it will go into "R" but won't physically turn the wheels....(AOD)) This is after a fresh rebuild of the transmission, so I hope it's something as simple as a solenoid not getting power (has both O/D and Transbrake, Art Carr MVB)

I'm taking baby steps here as I'm in some VERY deep water with all this tuning, despite all the reading I've done!!

[decipha]

hopefully u didn't forget to put something in there when you were putting her back together, my oldest brothers notorious for stuff like that, after he rebuilds something he always has a box full of spare parts

[incon_331_twinturbos]

haha, ya, only thing we can think was when we put the mechanical diode 4r70w stuff in there, we didn't have new seals for the reverse drum piston and didn't want to risk messing up the ones that were on the "old" AOD reverse piston , so we just used the "old" reverse piston, seals and all (looked VERY similar to the new 4R stuff) :dunno: My thinking is that it's not sealing well enough and fluid that forces the piston up and against the clutches is seeping past, not allowing it to lock up the reverse stuff....we'll see when I drop the pan and see if I get power to the solenoids... :headbang:

Also I noticed that the link I just put up there was for the Cbaza stuff...so I'm thinking the stuff Dan did at the end isn't appropriate for my A9P/C3W computer...

[incon_331_twinturbos]

Something is not right, the car does go into closed loop, and there is a huge difference between lambse 1 and 2.

ya...I looked back at the tune and I "thought" that I had changed the Forced OL but apparently it didn't change (or I didn't save it... :dunno: ) Maybe I can try again tomorrow and see if that makes any difference. Should I clear the KAMRF?

When thinking it was FORCED OL, the switch was enabled forcing OL however I had to change the display in BE so it was actually showing OL viewtopic.php?f=10&t=18429&p=99706&hili ... +BE#p99706

Also when clearing KAMRF, am I understanding it correctly that you load a tune with the CLEAR KAMRF enabled , then switch back to your "regular" tune after a few seconds?