[wader]

Does anyone know whether the EEC V ecm's are looking for a leading or following signal from the crank trigger? Original setup was 4 tooth wheel, and I am using a FAST 4 tooth wheel. I have a couple other feelers out, but have not heard back from either. Trying to sort out a p0385 dtc. Thanks!

[Stengun]

Howdy wader,

If you're running a V-8 you will need a 36-1 crank trigger wheel.

This is the one I used:

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/34-3 ... p-181.html

I'm not sure if the EEC-V uses a leading or falling signal. You should be able to tell by looking at the stock tune.

HTH

Paul

[wader]

Don't need the 36-1. I am working with an eec out of a bastard child '96 F150 5.0, only year for eec v on a 5.0. It came from the factory with a 4 point tone ring with a magnet sensor, just like the fast unit, that is why I got the fast unit. Factory balancer is a 50 oz, all the strokers are 28 oz, so I elected to add the fast crank trigger to a 28 oz balancer....Just trying to make sure I've got it set up right. Thanks

[decipha]

thats not edis thats dis, i never knew ford used dis on any v8s thats awesome

the edis uses a 35 tooth wheel

the external tfi "dis" uses a 4 vane (for v8) vane plate with a hall effect sensor, at least thats how its implemented on my supercoupes

im pretty sure the rising edge is used for the reference

this may help you

http://info.efidynotuning.com/ignition.htm

for external tfi DIS ignitions you would have to enable the dual plug scalar, you should have two plugs on your dis module

[LeadHead]

The 1996 F-150 5.0 wasn't DIS, or EDIS. It had a good 'ol TFI distributor. That is what makes it a bastard child. In this application, the crank wheel was used as a misfire monitor. All spark/fuel timing was derived from the standard 8 tooth tone wheel in the distributor.

[decipha]

shame i was excited to think they used dis on a v8

thats kind of stupid they used a reluctor for that, what was the purpose ?

[wader]

I didn't realize they were using the distributor for all the fuel/timing. I am running a MSD Billet distributor, straight out of/for a '94-95 mustang, same plug coming out of the dizzy. I am getting a p0385 DTC, crank position sensor B circuit malfunction.....I have tried flipping wires to change leading/falling, and still getting the code. I have since repositioned the ring so it is timed the same as OEM (40deg btdc) and opened up the gap to the sensor, but I'm having issues w/BE and have not tried to restart since making the changes to wheel. Thanks guys

[LeadHead]

shame i was excited to think they used dis on a v8

thats kind of stupid they used a reluctor for that, what was the purpose ?

Misfire monitoring, as required by OBD-II standards. Easier to track changes in engine speed due to a misfire with a crank based sensor. The distributor still feeds a PIP signal right to the computer, instead of the computer getting the PIP from the crank.

To the OP: Honestly, if you can't get it to work properly, I'd just unplug the sensor and disable the sensor/trouble code in BE if possible. If you still want to take a crack at it, your code indicates a circuit error, not really a timing error. I'd start by checking continuity of each pin on the sensor connector to where they go on the computer, and verifying the sensor has a 5v reference voltage (if it even uses it). If the wiring checks out, I'd suspect a bad sensor, or perhaps you need to shield the sensor wiring with something, possibly aluminum tape.

[wader]

To the OP: Honestly, if you can't get it to work properly, I'd just unplug the sensor and disable the sensor/trouble code in BE if possible. If you still want to take a crack at it, your code indicates a circuit error, not really a timing error. I'd start by checking continuity of each pin on the sensor connector to where they go on the computer, and verifying the sensor has a 5v reference voltage (if it even uses it). If the wiring checks out, I'd suspect a bad sensor, or perhaps you need to shield the sensor wiring with something, possibly aluminum tape.

It creates an a/c sine wave, hence the rising/falling signal, if wires are reversed you can change the direction of the sine wave-positive to negative or negative to positive, no 5v ref, but I should be able to check continuity to pcm connector, and shield the wires coming off sensor, right now they are not shielded for about 3" at sensor...I might even try twisting them, I know the sensor in rear diff creates an a/c sinewave, and those wires were twisted from the sensor to the PSOM

[Shaker666]

So you've got some sort of bastardized EEC-V, then? I've got a CDAN4 strategy EEC-V and it definitely wants a VR type crank sensor as well as a VR type cam sync sensor. My friend designed a 36-1 wheel for my crank pulley and another friend cut it out on a waterjet yesterday. Should be pretty tits once I spray bomb it with some rust inhibiting primer.

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