[Balaska347]

I'm having a problem with the car shutting down while driving. It cuts out completely and then starts again before I can react. It's not just losing a cylinder or two it is losing everything. I thought I had a bad connection somewhere or a wire grounding out but I can't find anything. I tried a new ignition and some other things and can't find the problem. I removed the tweecer from the car and the problem seems to have go away so far. I was wonder if there were any other problems like this one and if the tweecer went bad. The car is an 88 mustang with a A9P and it started doing this with the same tune that I 've been running all year. It feels like the factory revlimiter when it shuts the injectors down. But it does at any point while driving.

Thanks for any help

[2Shaker]

About 3 years ago when we were first tuning our new 347 with the TwEECer this happened to my son. We're lucky he wasn't in a major wreck because he was in the high speed lane with someone right behind him when the motor quit. Just like someone turned it off. The guy behind him spun out in the grass median to avoid a wreck!!

He got it off to the side and it started right up. But then he was getting close to home and it quit again and this time the starter was spinning and it wouldn't stop until the battery was disconnected. I discovered the battery cable, coming from the trunk, had loosened on the starter and was touching the +12 for the solonoid. I had no strain releif on the cable so when the motor rocked it eventually loosened the battery cable. Never happened again. You said you have check for a loose gorund well also check fo intermittant +12 and the keep alive memory +12.

I do not htink this is a marginal tune issue.

[Balaska347]

yeah I don't think it is a tune issue either. I was wondering if the tweecer was just going bad. It does act like a ground or if the computer is losing the 12V but I keep checking and can't find anything. The fuel pressure stays good and the dash lights don't dont anything either. I did smell fuel real bad in the car after it did it a couple times.

[2Shaker]

Don't forget that infamous little Ford ignition module. I've had 3 of those now and one was intermittlant. The car wouldn't start in the staging lane after a run and it sat for a while! I disconnected/reconnected that module in the process of checking everything and it started. Thought no more about it until we went to drive home later that night (after 2 more runs) and it quit on the highway (again :-( ). Had to have it towed and replaced that module the next day. That one failed about a year later. Pulling into a parking lot the car backfired and that was it. You might want to change it as part of your troubleshooting. The last one I bought the parts house had 2 to choose from. One was cheap and made in Korea (same as the 2nd one that failed) and then they had another which was quite a bit more but had a lifetime warranty.

[Balaska347]

Yeah I thought about that to, but it is a knew one. I just bought a MSD probillit distributor. There are soo many wire and hidden in so many places the it it hard to rule a bad wire out. It is getting progressive worse. It did it 6 times on the way to the track yesterday (40 miles) and only during one run. I removed the tweecer and it hasn't did again. I wish there was a way to test them.

[Balaska347]

Well I am 99.9% sure that it is a problem with the twEECer. After removing it it hasn't done it since. It is only 4 months old and was never remove from the car once installed. Does anyone know what I should do? Does it need cleaned and if it does with what? Is there a way to have it fixed or have it replaced?

[86GT]

Make sure it is configured for one bank. It is simple to hit that check box and mess it all up.

[Balaska347]

Well another up date. I put the tweecer back in the car and it did it again with in two miles. It has nothing to due with the tune because the tune was set on my PC in the house 4 months ago and was never touched since. I don't use a laptop so there was no way it could have been messed up. The only thing I can think to do is clean the connectors.

[351cstang]

If it helps I bought a tweecer rt end of june. The tweecer never worked from the start. After fight with the dealer i sent it back in Tweecer fixed it. I got it back put it in the tool worked great. Half hour later went to pull the car in the garage and the car died. Went to restart it the car would not start and the fuel pump would not shut off. So i checked everything i could think of. So i sent the tweecer back in again and now i'm waiting for it back. I live in ohio so all summer my car has been down. I'm not upset at tweecer at all I'm more upset with the dealer i bought it from because they never call back or email me back. If you bought your tweecer around the same time i did maybe they have a bad batch of them.

[Balaska347]

Do you have the information that I could get in touch with tweecer. Thats all I want to do is send it back to be fixed. I bought mine from a dealer on ebay but I don't remember who I might be able to find a receipt. I'm not mad either just upset that I can't find a way to get intouch with tweecer and have it fixed.

[2Shaker]

Go to the member list of this forum and sort by "join date" if it doesn't default to that. 93notch is Mike Glover. Send him an e-mail.

[Balaska347]

Thank you!

[turbo2256b]

Hello. I am new to this forum.
I just installed a Tweecer in my car and its having the same issue. Cuts out while driving for a second, Sometimes at idle, sometimes completely then restarts after shutting ignition off then back on, Sometimes wont start untill the Tweecer is set to the off position. Have never had this problem with the EEC by itself so far never in the Tweecer off setting. I coppied the stock EEC to the first position for starters. It began to happen soon after. Recoppied it several times and keeps doiing it. Have tried 2 other tunnings. 1st with EGR/TAD disabled (been running witout it for years before the Tweecer). 2nd with the VE set closer to 100% also (been running without EGR for 5000 or so miles before Tweecer)

Any ideas????

[cgrey8]

I had a problem where the engine would just shut off intermittently going down the road. It would turn back on nearly as fast. While it was running, it ran great. But when it was cut out, it was completely dead. For me, it turned out to be the EEC Power Relay. It was the truck's original relay that'd been there since 89. So it was no surprise that it was failing. The only thing that led me to that was it was while messing around trying to figure out what the problem was while it was failed one day, I notice the relay was warmer than I thought it should be. Sure enough, after replacing it, it hasn't done that weirdness since.

I've also heard that the ignition switch (usually mounted to the column) will do similar stuff when it goes bad.

[turbo2256b]

I had a problem where the engine would just shut off intermittently going down the road. It would turn back on nearly as fast. While it was running, it ran great. But when it was cut out, it was completely dead. For me, it turned out to be the EEC Power Relay. It was the truck's original relay that'd been there since 89. So it was no surprise that it was failing. The only thing that led me to that was it was while messing around trying to figure out what the problem was while it was failed one day, I notice the relay was warmer than I thought it should be. Sure enough, after replacing it, it hasn't done that weirdness since.

I've also heard that the ignition switch (usually mounted to the column) will do similar stuff when it goes bad.

Makes sence except if the tweecer is turned off it has never shut down before or after its instalation. #1 position on the tweecer is a tweecer reading of the factory ECM position 2 egr tad removal and 3 same as 2 with sea level ve increased. each position excep off or removed weecer causes the shut down

[turbo2256b]

Thinking about addindg one of those electrical magnetec field eliminators to the USB cable and see if that helps. In my car with the ECM located near the steering columb with a ton of wires and control boxes surrounding it could be an issue also.

[johnhennessy]

has any one got a solution to this because its happening to me

[86GT]

Is it doing it with the PC plugged in only? If the PC is not plugged in and it is doing it then the ferrite beed will not help.

[cgrey8]

I can't remember what's already been discussed, but another possible problem that can cause this is misconfiguration in your functions. If you have functions that the first column doesn't represent every possible value, then this could send the processor off into the weeds.

The most common example of this is people setting the top value of their MAF function to 4.7v or 5v instead of 16v. While it shouldn't be possible for the voltage to ever report 16v, your MAF curve's top value should always represent that top-most value anyway.

While the MAF curve is the most common example, this rule is not limited to the MAF curve function. ALL functions must adhere to this requirement.

Another thing that can misconfigure a function is if the first column has values that are not continuously ascending. Here's an example:

Code: Select all

 Volts  kg/hr
 16.0   1000
  5.0   1000
  4.5   900
  4.0   800
  4.25  825   <--- This line should not be below the 4.0v entry 
  3.5   700
 .
 .
 .

In this case, you've got a voltage range that's represented twice, and thus is ambiguous and not likely what you meant, and almost guaranteed to not translate, at runtime, the way you want. I don't think this kind of misconfiguration would send the processor into the weeds. But it certainly is a way functions can get screwed up and cause problems. In the worse of cases, such a misconfiguration can cause the EEC to command outputs completely wrong and have the effect of overly rich or overly lean conditions which might cause the engine to loose power and mimic a processor restart particularly if your reaction is to let off the throttle dropping the input condition back into an area in the curve that is valid and thus it appears the EEC restarted, cleared the engine of the bad fueling condition, and the engine starts acting normal again.

This is somewhat unrelated, but another misconfiguration that comes to mind is one I did to my Adaptive Learning table years ago. I was logging instances where my KAMRF values at idle were resolving to 0.5, intermittently, which flooded the engine and conked it out! For whatever dumb reason, I had a -89 in one of the special idle cells, which doesn't resolve to anything in the table. The math had the EEC referencing something outside the table and it was interpreting the garbage as a 0.5 KAMRF value. Fortunately, I could see the KAMRFs datalogging as that value which clued me into the cause. But when these things happen while driving in traffic, your mind isn't on looking at the laptop to diagnose...it's to get pulled over and out of the flow of traffic if possible. Talk about annoying is when these kinds of things happen at a redlight when you aren't moving. Then the light turns green and you are stuck at the intersection with angry people behind you. Good times...