Anything about Ford EEC tuning. TwEECer and Moates questions dominate, but there's some SCT and OBD-II knowledge too.

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TripleBlackVert
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Post by TripleBlackVert » Sat Feb 26, 2005 10:24 am

Slow5.0 wrote:So what we have to do is switch to position without tune with key ign on ???
Here is the process I have been using:

1. IGN on (tweecer switch is on #2)
2. load new tune (switch still on #2)
3. IGN off
4. switch to #1
5. IGN on (fan comes on)
6. IGN off again, take key out
7. switch back to #2
8. start car, calcon (kams are all 1.0!)

- chris
95 GT Vert, TwEECer R/T v1.30A9
1970 block, 410ci, 10.27:1 CR, 42#, LMAF, CBAZA/T4M0, AOD, 2500 Stall, Custom Cam

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Slow5.0
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Post by Slow5.0 » Sat Feb 26, 2005 12:20 pm

I gotcha bro :lol:
I'm from Bosnia / Europe ,now live in USA ,my English is sux ,so please don't critize me

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Post by rockin_rick » Sat Apr 30, 2005 1:26 am

Has this method withstood the (so far short) test of time, or has time uncovered pitfalls or problems? It seems that with this tuning stuff, things thought to be 'true', end up being disproven at some point. :?

I have a wired in KAM switch (that works) that I try to always use, that is if I have the 30mins (or so) to wait. If I'm in a pinch, I'll use the "invalid binary" method presented here. I have not have had any problems, but have only done it 2 or 3 times. I guess I am still sorta worried that there is some "hidden pitfall" or something bad that is intermittent or something.

What is everyones success rate with this method? AND what strategy are you using this on, and what is the calibration used that is invalid (for the KAM clear)? Seems that it only works on some strategys.

For me, I use CBAZA/J4J1 and the invalid binary is A9L.

Rick
I no longer have (but what all my posts refer to):

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Post by Dale McPeters » Sat Apr 30, 2005 11:22 am

IMHO I would use the KAM switch....

Note this is just my opinion YMMV.
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Post by pthornton » Sat Apr 30, 2005 11:42 am

I have been using it for months on both my A9L and CDAN4 without any problems. I have yet to corrupt a binary or anything of that nature. Just don't use the "update" flag and you should be fine.
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Post by boss96 » Mon May 02, 2005 11:20 am

My way is easier, have relocated the battery to the trunk, just go out back, push in the batt switch, hold the brake pedal a short time and there you go. :lol:
Bob
96 GT, Vortech Si trim,Procharger 3 core intercooler, forged bottom end, MAC longtubes, ported PI heads , Edelbrock intake, Crower cams-.580lift/234dur@.050, 80lb injectors, CDAN4/GGL4 processor.

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Post by twinturbostang » Mon May 02, 2005 4:49 pm

boss96 wrote:My way is easier, have relocated the battery to the trunk, just go out back, push in the batt switch, hold the brake pedal a short time and there you go. :lol:
Bob
BUT, that also clears all presets in your stereo. :(
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Post by boss96 » Mon May 02, 2005 6:19 pm

True, true, but if you have a loud ex. like mine you won't even have a radio in the car :lol: j/k
Bob
96 GT, Vortech Si trim,Procharger 3 core intercooler, forged bottom end, MAC longtubes, ported PI heads , Edelbrock intake, Crower cams-.580lift/234dur@.050, 80lb injectors, CDAN4/GGL4 processor.

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Post by 86GT » Mon May 02, 2005 10:29 pm

I'm with pthornton on this one. I have not had any problems with this. I simply download a CBAZA into one of the tweecer positions. Now if I ever want to clear out the KAMRF, I simply flip the switch and then put it back.

It takes a mattter of seconds. Just make sure not to dit while the car is running. I have no idea what it will do. It will most likley just die.

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Post by TripleBlackVert » Mon May 02, 2005 11:51 pm

i have done it probably 50 times. it works every time, and i have never had a problem.

is it time to sticky this idea?
95 GT Vert, TwEECer R/T v1.30A9
1970 block, 410ci, 10.27:1 CR, 42#, LMAF, CBAZA/T4M0, AOD, 2500 Stall, Custom Cam

1967 Fairlane Vert, 390FE, C6, 100% stock

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Yep

Post by Dale McPeters » Tue May 03, 2005 7:38 am

Yep since everyone seems to be having very few problems. I will add a link to this thread in the Software Forum.
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Post by ninjzx998 » Mon May 16, 2005 2:34 pm

Sweetness!
Just got the HP turbo kit installed this weekend and this will definately ease the pain with the new tune. Problem I had was that I couldn't get Kamrf to change from 1.0 and I know the tune is way off, although someone posted that the egr swtiched on may cause this if disconnected. Can't wait to try it.
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Post by scott88 » Sun May 29, 2005 12:16 am

Guys I hate to bring up an old thread here, and this may be the mother of all dumb questions, but why is everyone disconnecting the battery all the time anyway? Don't tell me I'm supposed to do this every time I burn a tune? :shock:

Could this be why my car is running like crap lately? I have been sending tunes to the EEC without disconnecting the battery. Am I supposed to? By the way, I'm with Boss 96 on this, I can't even hear my radio so I could care less about the presets.

Scott
88 Mustang LX, DSS 306, Moates QH v 1.6 w/self-tuned GUF1/A9P using BE & EA, Tremec 5 speed, LM-1 Wideband & Vortech S-trim, Crane 2031 cam, AFR 185 heads, Hooker longtubes, some other goodies.

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Post by JuiceSC » Sun May 29, 2005 7:37 am

Scott, here is the reason. I will use fictitious figures to illustrate. As we tune our cars, obviously adaptive memory builds as we drive with our "tunes". Since it is very unlikely that you can get it right the first time, when you make changes, if you clear the adaptive memory the changes show up faster. The eec has to learn to show us what is going on so we can make adjustments. Since this is a time consuming process, anything that helps to speed up things is a plus. Its really no different than teaching the eec idle strategy after a battery has been replaced. (eec lost KAMs)

I've done it both ways, load a tune with and without resets. Its not that you HAVE to do it, its just a better way to tune. You will see the results of the changes sooner.

Why is your car still running bad? Didn't you get another copy of the base tune I built you? If that worked in the past, it should work again the same way.
91 GT, A9P, systemax II, 75mm tb, AFP, 75mm Pro M, 42#, Vortech S trim, GT40 crate 5.0, BBK catted X, flows, Tremec 3550, Pro 5.0, 3.27 gears. Tweecer RT, TunerPro.

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Post by Jack Hidley » Mon Sep 12, 2005 12:30 am

This ia related question, so I'm putting it in this thread.

I noticed in the GFUB (A9L) strategy guide that they list the 3 memory locations in the KAM that the EEC checks to determine whether the KAM is corrupt or not. Why not just put a function in CalEdit to set these locations to 255 or something to trigger the fault and KAM reset? You'd still have to key the car to trigger the reset. The better option would to a function to clear the KAM. Any idea why this hasn't been implemented? The strategy guide contans the memory address range.
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Post by 86GT » Mon Sep 12, 2005 9:24 am

I mentioned this to Mike already. I'm not sure if it will be in the next release. It is just a matter of finding the correct memory locations.

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Post by twinturbostang » Mon Sep 12, 2005 11:09 am

"Next release"? What's that??? :)
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Post by Dale McPeters » Mon Sep 12, 2005 11:14 am

twinturbostang wrote:"Next release"? What's that??? :)
:lol:
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Post by 86GT » Mon Sep 12, 2005 11:16 am

I knew that I would get a rise out of someone on that comment :lol:

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Post by Jack Hidley » Mon Sep 12, 2005 2:56 pm

The KAM registers in question are listed on page 22-2 of the GFUB strategy.

KAM KAM
Register Address
--------- -------
KAMQA B80 HEX
KAMQB BC9 HEX
KAMQC BF6 HEX
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Post by Dale McPeters » Mon Sep 12, 2005 3:33 pm

:lol: ...

Jack could it be that simple?..... j/k....
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Post by twinturbostang » Mon Sep 12, 2005 5:14 pm

86GT wrote:I knew that I would get a rise out of someone on that comment :lol:
If it wasn't me, it would have been someone else. Ya can't leave that out there, flapping in the wind. ;)
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86GT
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Post by 86GT » Mon Sep 12, 2005 6:25 pm

twinturbostang wrote: If it wasn't me, it would have been someone else. Ya can't leave that out there, flapping in the wind. ;)
That was the purpose :roll:

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Post by Paul » Mon Sep 12, 2005 6:35 pm

Clint,
What binary are you loading into your A9* to cause the corrupted KAMRF's?

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Post by 86GT » Mon Sep 12, 2005 7:18 pm

J4J1

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Post by Slow5.0 » Tue Sep 13, 2005 7:43 pm

86GT wrote:I mentioned this to Mike already. I'm not sure if it will be in the next release. It is just a matter of finding the correct memory locations.
So when is next release ???
I'm from Bosnia / Europe ,now live in USA ,my English is sux ,so please don't critize me

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Post by 86GT » Tue Sep 13, 2005 11:42 pm

It was supposed to be mid year. That has come and gone.

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Post by Paul » Wed Sep 14, 2005 12:05 am

86GT wrote:J4J1
Thanks Clint, works like a champ :)

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Post by TripleBlackVert » Tue Nov 13, 2007 11:52 pm

rockin_rick wrote:Has this method withstood the (so far short) test of time, or has time uncovered pitfalls or problems? It seems that with this tuning stuff, things thought to be 'true', end up being disproven at some point. :?
any concensus about if this trick has withstood the test of time yet?
95 GT Vert, TwEECer R/T v1.30A9
1970 block, 410ci, 10.27:1 CR, 42#, LMAF, CBAZA/T4M0, AOD, 2500 Stall, Custom Cam

1967 Fairlane Vert, 390FE, C6, 100% stock

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